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Blink

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  1. 2005 Legacy GT Wagon Limited

    RBP/Tan

    170,000

    5MT

    Clear Title

    No Liens

    Boston, MA

    VIN 4S3BP676556339908

    Archhibb@gmail.com

    $2,300

     

    I bought this LGT in 2006 with only 6,000 miles. It arrived from Alabama without a scratch on it. She's been my pride & joy ever since.

    This Fall, a rear brake line failed. Replacement requires dropping the gas tank, which requires dropping the rear sub-frame. There's a work-around to all that, but I don't have the appetite to take this on.

    Engine runs great and does not consume oil. Heads rebuilt w/ timing belt change @ 100k. Always 5k OCI w/ synthetic.

    STI up-pipe

    VF52 turbo

    Perrin aftercooler

    Cobb catted downpipe

    Borla stainless steel 2.5" cat-back exhaust

    Upgraded Aeromotive fuel pump

    Cobb short shift w/ Subaru-branded Momo 'Race' shift knob

    Stage 2 upgraded clutch

    JDM Bilstein PSS coilovers (Legacy specific) rebuilt in 2020

    JDM K2 Gear front bumper w/ fog lights and custom honeycomb grilles

    JDM rear bumper

    Custom rear garnish w/ painted trim and reverse lights relocated to tailights

    JDM HID headlights (flipped reflectors) w/ leveling motors

    JDM power folding mirrors

    JDM headlight level adjusting & power folding mirror switch cluster

    Screate LED tailights

    18x8 forged rims w/ Hankook V12 255's

     

    The rims are Tommy Kaira Pro-R's, cold-forged, super-light @ 17lbs. each. Five sets with gold finish were imported to the United States. This is one of those sets. Currently, they are silver plasti-dipped so they can be returned to the factory gold finish if someone wishes. Due to their extreme rarity, a single 5th rim, new-in-box, is also included.

    OEM installed parts include trailer hitch, sub-woofer, cargo shade, new dashboard (2020), new battery (2021), and all records. Even the cup holder "donut".

     

    Car is drivable around the yard, but no brakes. Offered as complete car only and advertised locally.

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    • Like 1
  2. Just in case, don't use any chemicals to clean it. I bet mine got bad because I was used to clean them with Armorall type stuff. Big mistake I think.

     

    I use a sunshade now & then and only clean with a damp synthetic chamois (leaves no fibers) which is what I credit to the dash the dealer effed up being almost perfect. Almost except for the small scratch where some valet tossed my keys onto it. It’s always the other guy’s fault, right?

  3. It's possible that SOA may still replace the dash. I called a few years ago and they seemed open to it.

     

    Don’t hold your breath…

     

    Last summer I sent my LGT to the dealership (wait for it…) to get the passenger airbag recall done. That is the ONLY reason I’d let those idiots touch my car.

     

    We’ll already you know where this is going. I pick up the car and they used a large flat blade screwdriver to pry out all the air vents and cubby, denting crushing and splitting the dash pad.

     

    Service manager 1st response: “We have to talk to the tech and find out if he followed proper procedure.” WTF? LOOK AT IT MAN - It’s effed.

    Service manager 2nd response: “We have a shop that can repair this.” Oh no you don’t. That’ll never look the same. Gotta be brand new.

    Service manager 3rd response: “Uhh, so here’s the problem. NLA from Subaru or surrounding dealers’ stock.”

     

    I held my ground for 3 weeks until they coughed up a new OEM dash from god knows where.

     

    So for the second time in as many months I uneasily handed over my keys. This time I pick up the car and the dash is perfect.

     

    Whew.

     

    Until detailing the car that weekend I discover they gouged the living sh.t out of the steering column clamshell... :spin:

  4. I have the Borla system on my GT wagon and have a love/hate relationship.

    It’s loud by anyone’s standard, but a pretty deep burble that’s different from the usual boxer exhaust, an aspect I like a lot.

    Highway drone around 3,000 is pronounced. Keep meaning to try dynamatting or a bigger middie resonator.

    Tip fit with JDM bumper is great.

    The ‘Y’ splitter going to the mufflers is terrible - straight runs with 90-degree bends. It’s not that it doesn’t flow, it’s that it hangs down below the body rather than tucking up into the irregular spaces available. I added a hitch for mtn bike rack which now hides this, but was totally annoyed when I first installed it.

    Finally, quality materials and construction. Looks as good as the day installed.

  5. Very good advice so far, especially on body condition and forged internals. Costs can be subjective, but those 2 are universal truths IMO.

     

    One thing you didn't mention is what transmission you have. If stock 5MT, add upgraded clutch to your budget. My stocker held up to the VF52 for 2 years of not-abusive driving before crying uncle.

  6. 255/35/18 Hankook V12s on 18x8 +48 with a 12mm spacer for rears.

    Very slight fender roll required. Fronts fit just fine with no rubbing.

     

    The 255's on 18x8 are slightly pinched and therefore aren't noticeably wider than 245's. You really need 8.5" or wider rims to get the full effect of the larger tire.

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  7. Kinda "pure" STI/Legacy hybrid now, maximum OEM parts, minimum aftermarket (well, that was always the case just less JDM now :)) It rocks VF48 turbo, 08 STI intake manifold/TMIC, Cobb DP, Perrin Y, Prodrive cans, 08 STI 6MT gearbox with JDM Forester 5/6th gears, STI Torsen R180, STI Limited Brembos, JDM GT Bilsteins, Swift sways, SpecB suspension bits.

     

    Nice. Glad she's back on the road and hopefully running well.

     

    My car is Unclemat's boston "neighbor" and has benefited from his less-hoarding efforts. :)

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  8. I installed this gen. HIDs last Fall.

     

    Forum member AW4BYT makes and sells the harness to connect both headlights to the dash switch. Excellent quality and easy installation. You can buy the switch on eBay.

     

    Not sure if this applies to all JDM HIDs, but mine were sealed with mastic, not glue, so opening them to flip the shields wasn't hard using a heat gun and gentle prying.

     

    You can search the forum for the shield modifications. There's a significant difference in L & R beam patterns with respect to height that you'll want to correct. To do it right, you need to flip both shields and swap L & R.

  9. I purchased the entire gasket and seal kit when I had my heads redone. Used some of the gaskets, but most of it is still there. Happy to confirm or photo something specific if you ask. $50 obo

     

    Also have the following OEM gaskets.

    14497AA010 - Turbo outlet/intercooler inlet - qty. 2 - $8 ea.

    22656AA020 - Intercooler/Air Control Valve - qty. 1 - $5

     

    All prices include shipping in CONUS.

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