gianspi

Injectors are $80-$90. They are very easy to install. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to get the fuel out of the lines. In the engine bay, remove the safety clip (1 screw) and the injector can be popped out. Plug your new one back in and screw the safety clip back on top.

I have the same problem. Injectors and coilpacks are not under the powertrain warranty either. I was charged $180 diagnostic fee and the tech had no idea what was wrong. I swapped injector 1 and 2 later that day and figured it out in 15 minutes. I get a CEL about it everything 7k miles or so. I'm wondering if a good cleaning @ Witchhunter would fix it.

Spotted a silver LGT wagon with a grill and black wheels in Shrewsbury/Grafton near Worcester. Parked on the side of the road at a bank.

Inspection??? I was Stg2 and actually showed the inspection guy the exhaust, because he complimented me on the sound. It wasn't leaking before the cat, so it's no big deal.

gt30 will pwn your bumbum BigInALeg

why is it a NO NO NO NO to drilled rotors?

 

When you drill a brake rotor you weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and ultimately failure. Also, drilled rotors lose considerable surface area compared to slotted rotors which means less active braking area for pad to brake rotor contact.

Disappointed in the braking of my 2006 LGT, I am planning on installing new pads (probably Hawk HPS, but open to suggestions). Are the ss hoses worth the money/hassel (in terms of major bleeding!) too? This is an aggressively driven street car, but no competition.

 

SS Lines will increase the pedal feel, but do nothing to help you stop faster.

The leggy is better in town, but worse on the highway as it is too light. But in town, what fun. How are the GT's.

 

They are really peppy in town, but do suffer from a "floaty" feeling on the highway (80+ mph). It gets tossed around at high speeds.

I'm with some of the guys above: get yourself a set of Rhino Ramps from walmart or any autoparts store. Ask for them by name. $20 for a good deal, 25 some places. No jacking required. Just drive up them...

 

Don't forget chucks. Safety first!

#1)

 

Avon M550 A/S

$104/tire from TireRack.com

225/45/17

 

#2) Rhode Island (New England)

 

#3) Daily driver and short 8-9 mile mud rally.

 

#4) Highway/City 70/30

 

#5) Re92s, Semperit Sport Grips

 

#6)

 

I have 1800 miles on the tires... 1,014 miles of which were during the past weekend while attending the "48 Hours of Tri-State" (http://www.48hrs.info) charity drive-a-thon. I've encountered everything but ice thus far.

 

Dry: The tires stick great to the dry road. They feel much smoother than the re92s and provide much more traction. Understeer has drastically been reduced.

 

Wet: The tires are still extremely sticky in the wet. They feel too smooth...as if they are gliding on butter...which may seem out of control, but they go in the direction you point them too. This will take some getting used to, but they are more than competent. I did notice some increased understeer in the wet, but I was finicking with the pressure all day, so that might of been my fault.

 

Snow/Slush/Mud: I've had the opportunity to drive these in 4-5inches of SnowMud (not sure exactly what to call it) and they preformed great for an all season. During 40mph rally in the SnowMud, of course the the wheel jerked around a little bit and had a couple of small sliding moments, but I was really impressed. I couldn't plow through like my dedicated snows, but I felt confident that I would not get stuck.

 

Pressure: 40psi all around felt dangerous. 38psi was good, a little harsh ride. I'm using 36F/34R and I really like this setting.

 

Conclusion: The Avons can't compete with dedicated summer tires and dedicated winters, but this is a great all-season. Keeping 36/34psi shows reduced understeer, remarkable wet and dry traction, and acceptable snow traction. This is a great all-season tire, and when considering its price of only ~$100, one could argue it is one of the best choices for someone seeking all-year use.

Will this cause any emissions/inspection to fail? I need to get re-inspected soon.

I saw your video and noticed the washers inbetween the pipes. I didn't think that was all that was done to create that nice of a sound. I would highly suggest you spill the beans in text on the first post, outlining exactly what was done. It would save newbs like me many hours of reading through this long thread

 

Thanks for the tip, I am definitely headed over the Home Depot tomorrow morning!

#1) Semperit Sport Grip, 225/45/17 (Winter tire for compact cars)

 

Now discountinued as Continental bought them out. You can still find 15" and 16" tires available at tiresavings.com I believe.

 

#2) Rhode Island, USA

 

#3) Daily commuting

 

#4) Highway 70 / City 30

 

#5) Stock RE92

 

#6) These tires stuck in the dry similar to the RE92. Decent in the dry, but not comparable to a summer tire.

 

They worked exceptionally well in the rain. I drove about 250 miles in pouring rain, puddles, light rain, and 1.5 inches of water. They did not slip at all! I am very impressed so far. I will update my post once I get to test it in the snow.

 

One complaint is that they squeel during some turns in the dry. But I guess this is what I should expect from soft winter rubber.

 

BTW: Running 40 PSI all around. They felt a little too mushy at 35psi.

ddhttp://myoceanstate.com/personal/legacy/car2.jpgdddd

 

http://myoceanstate.com/personal/legacy/wheel.jpg

Maxxim (Konig company) Rumor Wheels. Only made for one year. Bought them dirt cheap and now are my dedicated winter setup

 

17x7 5x100/114.3 ET40

 

http://myoceanstate.com/personal/legacy/car1.jpg

 

http://myoceanstate.com/personal/legacy/car1.jpg

Maxxim (Konig) Rumors with 225/45/17 tires

 

http://myoceanstate.com/personal/legacy/car2.jpg

+++++1 = Subaru coolant is specifically engineered for our aluminum blocks, heads and coolant systems. Anything else and you seriously risk compromising the cooling system by initiating corrosion in your system. Check out this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) link. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5316. Note the non-amine type equivalent.

 

SBT

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15944&highlight=subaru+genuine+coolant