ece_tim

bump for another price drop

Bump - pics added & price dropped

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2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i

Professionally rebuilt engine, many new parts

Recent inspection

Automatic transmission

AWD

Power locks & windows

Good tires

Cold AC

Check engine light re: transmission - TurboTime recommended new torque converter

Runs and drives great

 

Chassis & transmission mileage: 223,725

Engine mileage: Approx. 5K miles

Approximate miles on all other new parts: <10K miles

 

Engine professionally rebuilt by Subaru specialists TurboTime

All new OEM parts

New timing belt & timing parts

New catalytic converter

New ball joints

New wheel bearings

New oil pump

New plugs & wires

Differentials serviced

Driveshaft replaced

Steering rack replaced with low mile used part

Front & rear brakes serviced

AC recharge

 

All of the work on this car was done at TurboTime, which is very well known on the southeast as a top notch Subie shop. You are also welcome to call them and verify any details on the work. Please PM me with any questions

 

A lot of money was spent on this car over the last year, so my loss is your gain.

 

PRICE DROP - Asking price: $4,000 OBO

Car located near Raleigh, NC

 

Whenever I try to upload a photo, it says "Upload of the file failed." Maybe an admin can help me? In the meantime, find all the photos here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NC7ius4aQyk6DTQE7

Mine are still going strong. The calipers themselves make a fair bit of noise when actuating, I probably need to rebuild them - but no functional issues. Even have kept the same rotors and pads for 20K miles, which was a challenge before.

 

Still running the stock 17's - so if anyone else has experience with aftermarket 17's and clearance - LMK!

Hey folks - I've got the Wilwood calipers and am looking at getting aftermarket wheels. Specifically looking at the TSW Nurburgring wheels: http://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_nurburgring.php

 

I figure it's unlikely anyone with the Wilwoods has these wheels, but wanted to get general thoughts on fitment over these calipers. Obviously the 18" wheels would fit no problem, but frankly I'd rather not go to 18" if I don't have to.

 

The wheel shape appears generous in the caliper area and the spokes aren't nearly as thick as on the stock 17" wheels. It shouldn't be any question on fitment, right?

 

Welcome any thoughts yall have!

Per the factory manual, power steering fluid is ATF DEXRON III or equivalent. If you want to pay more for the actual Subaru ATF, it should work just fine as well, but technically it's not specified and Subaru doesn't state their ATF (PN K0140Y0700) is equivalent to DEXRON III.

Any Dexron compatible fluid is fine. Considering the factory fill lasts well over 50K, in my case to 100K, I wouldn't bother with synthetic. But all should work fine!

Just wanted to pop by and say this process worked great for me. At 108K miles, my power steering started getting noisy and started screeching if I would turn the wheel without some momentum in the car to reduce the load on the power steering. The power steering assist was weaker at low speeds too, it was obviously having some kind of problem. Hoping it wasn't the pump itself, I followed the directions here and changed out the fluid. Problem is 100% gone! I made sure to flush a lot of clean fluid through it, probably more than necessary; but fluid is cheap and I didn't want to do it again!

 

Regarding making a video for this, I hear you but it really is a straight forward process. Your power steering reservoir has two connections on it: one pointing towards the driver's side with a hose that goes to the power steering pump. One pointing towards the rear of the car with a hose that follows the top of the strut tower (per the pic on page 2) and then goes down behind the engine to the power steering rack.

 

If you can locate these hoses, remove the inlet/return hose (the one pointing towards the rear), and remove the power steering belt, that's all there is to it.

 

Also, I don't think you really need a second person to tackle this at all. Just make sure you fill the power steering reservoir all the way up, then turn the wheel from one end to the other and back. That amount of movement will take the reservoir below the minimum mark, but not empty it. Then fill it back up again. A second person REALLY isn't necessary.

Lots and lots of PB Blaster (or your penetrating oil of choice). Let it SOAAAAK. Then get a sledgehammer (around 5 lbs or so). Crowbar/prybar. Go. To. Town.

 

If that doesn't work, go to Lowes/Home Depot and grab a MAP gas torch. Should be around $30-40 IIRC. Heat that bitch up.

 

It won't be easy. But it will come off.

 

While you're at Lowes, get a couple metal brush attachments for your drill and go to town cleaning it up (after you get the bearing out of course). Then slather liberally with anti-sieze.

I just wanted to post this for people looking to replace their hubs in the future: don't go with the parts store hubs, get OEM. I had a RF hub going bad and the LF studs were messed up, so I went ahead and replaced both at about $109 out the door each. They worked great, car drives nicely, but my cruise doesn't work as a result. Now I have to order the OEM hubs, change them again, and return the Moog brand hubs to Advance Auto.

 

See this thread for more details: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/no-cruise-control-after-wheel-bearing-hub-change-181231.html

Hey guys - great thread here, lots of good info. I just want to double check before I place all my orders.

 

Where I am: stock brakes

Where I want to be: Wilwood 4-pots

Parts list:

2 x Wilwood 120-11135 calipers (larger piston, reported to work the same by SCASEYS)

2 x DBA 4000 T3 slotted rotors (DBA42650S)

1 x Wilwood 150-9416K BP-20 pads

1 x BrakeSwap.com mounting kit

 

Do I need anything else to complete the swap?

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

I would expect it to take at least a couple hours for a shop as well.

The driver's side does need to be raised up a bit more, but it's looking good!

 

Also, love your profile pic

Ah, yeah, I guess it could be different in 08-09 models. I imagine there has to be a way to trigger a relay using a 2.6v source, but I expect someone with more electrical experience will need to chime in.

Yeah you're right, most automotive relays are switched at 12V. Brain fart.

 

A quick search on these forums shows that the DRL line should run enough voltage to trigger the relay:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=365806&postcount=24

Don't pretty much all relays switch with a relatively low voltage? Then the relay just sends whatever power source you've hooked it to straight to your source. So use the DRL wire to trigger the relay and run a fused line from the battery to the LEDs?

 

That said, McMaster Carr probably has a huge selection of relays.

I would think the mis-plugged bulb is unrelated to your on-off issues. Sounds like your ballasts are being triggered off the wrong wire.

 

Post the details about your retrofit. Just triggering off of stock wires, added in pre-built or self-made harness, etc.

Has anyone read the first post ?

My bad - I assumed the info wasn't there due to the huge number of posts. I've been reading since you started the thread, so I haven't gone to post #1 in a while

Frankster - great progress man! Just thought I'd suggest putting the relevant details (what you're doing, why, tranny, etc) to reduce the "Hai guyz, what tr@nzmission R U usingk?" questions

 

Keep it going!

Move along people, nothing to see here. Just remember that when you feed a troll, it grows.

Custom shielding? As, the low beam shield? To what end?

I hate pushrods. antiquated technology......

I cant help but think of the millions of dollars of R&D that went into the very capable, smooth, powerfull, and light H4, only to be replaced by a far inferior engine in all technical aspects. I hope that money, convenience, and desire to be different are the reasons for this swap.

Yeah, because pushrods are SOOOO antique and worthless. I mean damn, it's not like OHV engines can be made to be reliable, compact, light, fuel efficient and with high power output. Whereas the "capable, smooth, powerfull[sic], and light H4" does not flow well, has a limited range of torque output (sorry, 3500-4500 RPM is NOT a good power band), gets poor fuel economy relative to other motors in the same class, is far from smooth, is not especially light and has more reliability issues than competitor I4's and OHV 6 & 8 cylinder motors.

 

Sorry kid, you need to expand your horizons. Subaru's H4 is far from a perfect engine and Subaru's engineering needs to cross some T's and dot some I's as a whole.

 

P.S. OHV vs OHC. Compact packaging FTW

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88241&stc=1&d=1280721738

shucks....I'd go V8 if I was gonna swap a motor. I'm thinking the 4.0 northstar from the Olds aurora wasn't too big. Of course likely doesn't have the aftermarket parts.

Actually, it's huge. DOHC V-engines take up a LOT of space. Cam-in-block OHV motors like the GM LS series are actually very compact, and it's why you find them swapped into all manner of rides. The turbo V6 OP is using is rather compact also, as I do believe its OHV as well.

 

I have a pic somewhere of a 5.0L OHV and 4.6L DOHC Mustang motors side by side - the difference is shocking.

It is front heavy, but if you drain the fluid first it is quite easy to work with. A floor jack towards the front should work fine. I imagine that's how I got it started, but my memory is fuzzy.