Flxr_88
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Posts posted by Flxr_88
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Completely understand. I will look for a IM that is in good shape unless you find an extra. Vacuum hose wise, should I buy the anchillary set, or the large roll? Thanks for all the help.
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I took a look around and I probably should go with the legacy manifold for ease of install like you said. My next question would be, do I go with a complete manifold with the hoses, or buy just the upper manifold as my throttle body is actually in good shape, and buy a vacuum hose kit.
this is the IM I found with the hoses:
Apart from this one I’ve seen the upper IM without hardware or anything else included for around $80 and some hose kits for the lgt for around $45.
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Got it. I thought it looked too “messy” to be original. I know from looking back at receipts of what the old owner had done, when they replaced the head gaskets the tech noted that they had to epoxy back on “a few hoses”. But replacing wise, I should be able to find a manifold from any 2.5L wrx or other legacy right?
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I’ve been noticing a stumble every now and again at idle. I know of a hose that broke off and was previously epoxied. So obviously there is a leak, but I borrowed one of the evap smoke testers and I found nothing, not even hooking it up to another spot and seeing it come through that hose. I was wondering if I should worry about this or if I’m doing this wrong. I have a 93 octane stage 1 on there for my sf air intake which now gives me no problems, no check engine light, and a decompressing sound on shutoff. I circled some pieces that I found to be broken, or missing completely. I do have the nipple that connects to the front most epoxied broken part on the intake manifold.
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I just put a tune on my car, stage 1+ SF 93, and took it out for a test drive. Everything was good and I let it sit for the night. I come back and the Cobb tuner fell off of the dash that I had the mount stuck to, in which broke the connector, but I’m currently working on salvaging the pieces out. I took it out for a test drive without the Cobb or cord plugged in, and when I started accelerating, the windshield wipers wiped one time, the parking brake light flashed and the abs light came on. Additionally l, the speedometer went to zero and then back to my speed. It was very finicky when I was going 35-40 and just holding a little bit of gas to keep speed up a hill, but would work fine when at higher rpm’s. It’s such a specific issue, I had no idea where to start looking. Could the Cobb be the issue? I also noticed that some of my gauges weren’t working. Boost for sure, only displaying -0.1/0.0 psi
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Got it. Thanks.
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$100 +shipping sounds good. My zip code is 53403. How should we go about payment? Would PayPal be good?
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3 hours ago, Infosecdad said:
Looks like I have a set of OEM sidefeed TGVs from an '06 LGT, 2005-2006 used the same TGVs (14011AB432).
Awesome. How much would you want for them? And they work as far as you know, correct?
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7 hours ago, KZJonny said:
That is the long and short of it. At this point in the age of these cars, half the time the TGV delete isn’t about making more horses, it’s that the TGV motors or sensors break and they’re expensive to replace and hard to find.
This is why I am trying to find a way to delete mine. No luck so far. It would also be nice to add oil pressure as a data logged feed, but you can’t have everything…
Best and fastest bet to put you back on the road is figure out which tune had the TGV delete written into it, and go back to how you got the car. That intake isn’t going to help you at all anyway. That would give you time to find some stock tgvs and install them, if you want to do further tuning.
Got it. That’s what I will do.
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I see now. So it was a theory that didn’t necessarily prove to be true, or effective enough for most cases, and was just a common thing people did due to the theory of making more hp, and freeing up that space. Thanks for all the help. I see my options now are: finding an oem tgv set, finding an OS Tuner, getting a stand alone ecu (expensive though), or doing a top feed conversion. And that I would need all O2 components to pass emissions.
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On 2/22/2024 at 4:02 PM, KZJonny said:
There is an entire another thread about how it may be possible to go to top feeds on a side feed car, but the options are limited, hard to find and you’d still need someone to tune for them.
Got it. I am in the US, so were you saying there are a not a lot of OS tuning places left that deal with Subarus, correct? I saw some top feed conversions, but those were expensive as well from what I was seeing, and I would need the tune on top of that. Other than extra hp and space if you really need it for a larger turbo, is there any other reason for a TGV delete. It seems somewhat common but also seems to cause more problems than it fixes. Also, I have two wires connecting to the backside bracket on my TGV’s. Is that a bypass for the sensors, or is that stock?
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Awesome, thank you.
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That’s awesome. They have the sensors, motors, and flaps correct? And how much would you be looking for? That is if you have them.
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The guy got back to me and said he did not have any or was willing to sell the TGV’s alone. Would another option be to just tune it at a good tuning shop? I emailed one Cobb pro certified tuning shop near me and they said I would need to reinstall the TGV’s because it wouldn’t meet the emissions guidelines, even though I have the papers showing that it passed emissions, and he said the codes can’t be bypassed. Would he not be able to do it because he uses Cobb? And if so should I look at a tuning place that doesn’t use Cobb?
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I returned the top feed ones as they wont work, but taking a closer look at the Forester XT ones you linked to, it looks like the port is still for top feed. I see some of the side feed short, stubby injector ports on some others, and I'm just trying to make sure 100% before I buy another set.
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Alright. Thanks so much man.
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I see now. So I have side feed injectors but the tgv I got is top feed, like for the black injectors. And are the ones you sent a link for side feed then?
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I don’t have the tune that was used for the tgv’s. From what I’ve seen on the ecu history it was all Cobb tunes
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The guy who I bought the car from said he had a stage 1 tune on the car but took it off for selling purposes. If I were to get the side feed, wouldn’t I also need to get new fuel lines to connect to the injectors?
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When I was tuning, I was putting the 93 stage 1 SF map on because I had an air intake, and as soon as I turned it on for the first time it went into limp mode and threw tgv codes. P2008, P2011, P2016, and P2021. So I looked at my driver side tgv to see if it had a motor and it didn’t. The old owner did a tgv delete and I assumed that the tgv delete was messing with the tune, so I bought two tgvs for an EJ255 and that’s about where I am now.
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I was trying to tune my 05 lgt and was having issues due to a prior tgv delete by the old owner. I descided it would be better to replace the TGV's and run the tune so I bought a set of OEM tgv's with the intact motor and sensor that was said to fit the EJ255. They arrived and I started the disassembly to hold them up to eachother and see that there is no way the injectors would fit. The TGV's I currently have would use EJ205 injectors, or apparently the 2008 sti injectors. I could return the TGV's, but that is a long process, and I tried looking for a used EJ255 tgv and have found none under $300. I was really wondering if I could buy injectors that would fit in the TGV, like from a 2008 wrx sti. And if I did, would I need a specific tune?
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Yeah I see that. Do you have any recommendations? Here’s a good picture of the gap.
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Of course. I get a Subaru and it comes with an oil leak. Now I believe it is pretty easy to fix but I need some help. I’m a young kid and I know my way pretty well around cars. I am no professional and I would say I’m about an amateur. Ive replaced things all over this car so far and got to the oil leak. I know where it’s coming from and am 99% sure it’s the valve gasket. It was replaced 50k miles ago and is probably due but the problem is caused by what seems to be a gap. I’ve tried tightening the bolt a little bit but I’m not taking the chance of slipping a thread or shearing a bolt. I would like to know what valve cover gasket I should get. Also, I’ve wiped away the oil before and it has come back. Not the head gasket it’s bone dry there. Well I should say it might not be the head gasket. The gap is about the same place on both sides. Pics are passenger side.
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The radiator is also slightly upgraded and aftermarket
Vacuum leak
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
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Got it. I have nothing else done to the engine bay except a iag aos as a gift and the cai so I’ll pick up a roll. The sets are around $180. I see some barebone IM for $80 so I’ll probably pick up one of those. I have seen other people upgrade their turbo inlet, and I was wondering if I should or shouldn’t because I heard it would be a “while you’re in there” type of install, or if it even would be worth it at all.