kattz

In looking at the specifications for the STI rear axles, they seem to be about 0.3 inches shorter than the Legacy GT. However, the R180 differential is approximately 40 mm wider than the R160. It might work out. I won’t know until I start taking stuff apart and that’s probably going to be well into spring of next year.

1 hour ago, Zee199969 said:

BBPeik did an STi trans swap. He had to get custom axels bc the STi ones were too short

I saw that. I reached out to him about a month to two months ago to ask him what shop he used and exactly what he had to do but never got a response.

I'm using a 2017 STI trans, RS180 rear diff, axles, hubs and knuckles...

Front knuckles should fit according to the thread I read as well as GR rear knuckles. 

When I said hubs I meant to say knuckles. I'm not talking about changing out just the bearing hubs alone.

Also, the GR STI rear knuckles also fit the 2010 Legacy Outback...

Thank you. It looks like I will have to change out my VA rear spindles and knuckles to the GR version. They seem to be cheap enough on eBay. The front knuckles were used from 2008 through 2021. Appreciate you sending me the link!

Does anyone have any information on what year STI hubs will fit our vehicles? I have the hubs out of a 2017 and just checking to see if maybe I need another year. Thanks.

Yes.

That's kind of what I was thinking looking at the drawings of the two different racks. Not that there's anything wrong with the stock rack. Maybe some better bushings would take care of the compliant feel.

Has anyone ever installed the quick ratio STI hydraulic steering rack into a 5th gen? I know it fits the 4th gen, but that's more closely related to the "traditional" engine crossmember. 

I will post the build when it happens. I still need to do some more healing from my neurosurgeon screwing up. And so it might be late next year before this happens. Also have a engine coming so that I can 3D print the headers for it and test fit them and then send it to the header shop. And I need the heads for the new motor when we do that in 3 years. There is an awful lot of work to do and there's just me.

Well... um, this.

2015 STI front and back seats.  Need to be cleaned up but basically perfect.

By the way, I was looking for these seats for a month or more. Do you realize how hard it is to find limited seats, with all leather and no alcantra, and heat? It's like hunting for a needle inside a pile of needles. When I install these I'll put a build up on it. Especially the wiring.

I was able to nail this down more - this is from PLM who reps various vendors.

1. First we gauge interest & collect pre-orders
***Pre-orders are 100% refundable if there is not enough support generated for this product. ***
2. Develop a design
3. 3D print a prototype and test fit
4. Once validated, we can roll right into production for our first batch of the new product.

Equal or unequal length would be determined as well.

Looks like it's not going to happen.

I agree that not much supports us, but the 5th gen LGT can still be a powerhouse.  The turbo and fueling seems to be the biggest hurdles.

I have found that most 2015 WRX items fit our platform, but it takes real work to make them shine.

The exhaust and turbo system design is actually better than the older LGT, but is not very flexible to change based on what I've seen. If I was to do it over, I would have bought an '09.

Finally, everything is imperial units.  That TPMS light will be gone soon enough.

The only p/n still available new is the 2010 p/n, 85021AJ01A.  That's what this one is.  All displays including the eyebrow ambient temp and fuel display and the HVAC all changed to °F and miles from metric.  Took 20 minutes.

Big shout out to Aaron and team at Kings Subaru in Cincinnati.

5 hours ago, Humble Rumble said:

NOW, the bastard issue with the tS Aluminum arms: your front fitment will be permanently unsquared from your rear fitment, due to the fact that JDM/World market cars (which these arms were made for) have 20mm NARROWER track width than USDM cars. Why? I have no earthly fucking idea. Probably the same dumb reason Subaru decided to make LITERALLY EVERY BODY PANEL different between the two markets. What this means is that installing these arms without additional corrective measures will add +10 positive offset to your front wheels only. Essentially if your wheel is +45 offset, these arms on a USDM car will make them fit like +55. This caused me an issue years back when I was still on struts and springs, as my wheel/tire setup cleared at +45, but rubbed the tire on the strut at +55. I did a whole track day like this and essentially shaved my front tire edges and destroyed them. 

There is two possible solutions: 1. Run 10mm spacers in the front only at all times (will need extended studs in the front). This is what I do and have done for the last 5 years and other than complicating new wheel setup purchasing a bit, it's been issue free. I got +5mm H&R extended studs in the front and run 10mm FastWRX hub centric spacers, so it equates out to the same as running a 5mm slip on spacer. 10mm spacers on factory length studs will not allow for enough thread engagement to safely mount. You can do longer than +5mm studs if you want, you'll just need to run open ended lug nuts.

2. Find wheels that are available in the same size with an offset difference of 10mm (for instance, 4 of the same wheels, but 2 of them at +45 and 2 of them at +35). This is more difficult to find and makes front to back tire rotation impossible without dismounting the tires from the wheels, but it completely avoids using spacers (which some people fret about, I don't personally). It would still be a good idea to do extended studs in the front.  

One last thing to note is that being on coilovers eliminates the majority of inner fitment issues with these arms, and the need to run square offset front and rear fitment is basically just for the sake of your diffs. If you aren't worried about the front wheels being 10mm more inset than the rear, then send it. 

Wow, thanks for the info!  All good stuff!

The hubs will all be STI, so I will be changing over the wheels to Enkei, Gram Lights, or Apex (wallet permitting). Affirmative on the coilovers, but having to change to STI coilovers.  You have spring psi recommendation?

After reading this, also considering the HardRace front LCA's, but know nothing about them yet. Kinda wondering if the STI hubs change the offset further.

Reading this, I would have a slightly staggered offset with the rear being 10mm wider per side, 20mm total. What does this do to hard cornering?  And can the vehicle still receive a performance alignment?

Pushing for 275's or 285's, no one here to do a fender pull, Turn-In Concepts can complete the fender roll.  The front fenders on this vehicle have no roll but have almost no lip... sheet metal is jagged and the paint is bubbled under there. Not sure what was done.

What about a V-band flange?

33 minutes ago, Scubaboo said:

Another thing that would be nice is to have is the option for other flanges to be able to put on something other than a VF54.

Not in the market though, just a suggestion.

I was talking to a rep in passing about there being no header options for our platform.  He reps for KillerB and is reaching out to them, as they have had several requests for headers for our vehicle.  I am about 4 hours from KillerB, and if they need my car to make the headers, I'm going to offer it.

Just checking, if they were to make a set for my '12, including a possible port for an external WG, is anyone else interested in headers?

Sorry, wasn't sure where to post this.

Kev

I reached out to AWE regarding the potential for an upgraded exhaust for my gen 5 LGT.  John says basically no interest from the community.

So what about it?  Would anyone else here be interested in an AWE Touring or Race exhaust?

If so, please reply to this thread. This is for any model LGT, not just Gen 5.

This is not a solicitation to obligate anyone to purchase, or for a group buy.  Maybe a GB might be possible if enough are interested.

Kev

Seek out a reputable dealer.  My nephew's wife has a horrible one in Albuquerque, but right on the other side of town, there's a dealer that will bend over backwards to help her.  I had to call SOA on her behalf and they replaced her CVT at 140K miles for free.

Short block?  I had a bad one around 2004, was sucking coolant.  Dealer swore it wasn't.  Turned out cyl 4 was machined out of round and had tore up a number of thing.  They replaced the short block, head gaskets, and reworked the heads for free.  SOA, again.  And the dealer went to them on my behalf.

Dealers take advantage of women.  They do, and I know this because my wife worked at three different ones, and they all took advantage.  Some more than others, but most do IMO.

However, hard to see all of the facts here via the web.  She should've raised holy hell about the short block at that time.

Now?  Not much will be done.  But- If she has records and someone to help her get her info together, call SOA and maybe they would be willing to give max value on a trade or something.  When calling SOA, be nice.  Ask for help, don't just crap on the dealer.  A little honey attracts lots of flies.  Hope it works out. 

And tell her to find another dealer.

Ts LCA's arrived yesterday from Japan. Took them down to the shop and cleaned them thoroughly.  Sending out for clear anodize.

I found wire chafing and a broken wire in my main harness through the bulkhead today.  I soldered and heatshtunk the broken wire  but there are other wires in there that are abraded.  Can't see any more broken.

I had to slit and cut open the engine bay side of the harness completely to get access for the repairs.

The p/n for the harness is out of stock using my VIN, but Subaru has other bulkhead harnesses that will work on the 2012 LGT 6MT Limited that I can get on the secondary market new.

Does anyone have any insight on how to find the differences between particular harnesses?

I sent him a few PMs during the last week, but he hasn’t read them yet. I got the lower control arms cheap, so if they don’t work right it’s not a big deal. I plan on re-bushing and rebuilding most of the front end and rear end while it’s out.

I plan on taking the entire engine, transmission ,and front cradle to the machine shop, and we will jig it up there and make the new mounts.

Procured the Legacy GT tS front lower control arms from Japan, ST20202EZ000 and EZ010 for the upcoming work.  The scope of work is expanding since the engine will be out.

I bought the new 01A, and also kept the 63A as a throwdown.