KGJT-9149

With the new cammed frankenmotor in my '95, I'm looking to get a bit higher of a redline as the 5900 limiter of the stock 22E just isn't good enough. I heard that swapping to a 25D ecu will bump to 6500 so I was planning to do that. Upon doing more research today, it sounds like the '95 had a different pin layout meaning that it wouldn't be a plug-and-play swap. Is this true, or would I be able to go ahead as I planned?

So, the gearbox in my 95 rallycross wagon feels like it's maybe a few clutch dumps away from giving out, and I'm looking at replacing it but I have a few questions. We're looking at putting a 4.111 out of an Outback or Forester to get a bit better acceleration (and because we're spinning bigger tires), but it sounds like these were all push style, hydraulic clutches and our car uses the old pull style cable. How hard would it be to convert either the new box to work with the car's system, or convert the car to the other style? I've heard a few times that until '99 all NA 5MTs were cable, pull style, is that true? If so that's probably what I'll look for as it will be an easier swap. Thanks in advance!

Update 12-7-2023: Delta 200 grind cams installed in the 2.2 heads. Rotating assembly is installed and the block halves have been bolted together. Pistons have been cleaned (a few hours with the wire brush and soapy water did the trick). New radiator has been put together. It's just a cheap ebay one, we're expecting that we'll probably have to replace them after every season due to mud and debris clogging up the fins. Most parts are in/ordered, though I discovered that the free ebay stage 2 clutch that we installed this past April has a few large cracks and missing chunks in the friction disc, so a new one will need to be ordered. Overall the project is going well. It's been a really fun learning experience and I can't wait to get the car back on the road/track.

10/12- Both the EJ251 and 22E have now been fully stripped and inspected. The 251 was fine despite having eaten the rod bearing, though the 22E fared a bit worse. Both head gaskets (the infamous single layer graphite ones, meaning these were the originals from the 1994 build date) had failed causing oil and coolant to do their mixing. Cylinder #4 saw the piston meet the head, though the heads made it out mostly fine (thank god for non-interference). Performed a leak test and one valve bubbled, so we're going to check to see if it is bent, or if it's just not seating properly. The rod on number 4 had also welded itself to the crank which explains why this engine seized while the 251 still ran. The 22E short block has now been tossed to scrap (may it rest in peace). All bottom end parts that were salvageable have been cleaned and we are starting to collect gaskets. I've also ordered a new crankshaft because although it was in good enough condition that getting it re-machined was possible, all local shops were 6+ weeks out from having an opening and would have cost the same as a reman w/ bearings. So far the project is going well (currently in the 'waiting on UPS stage'), and if you've never had the opportunity to tear apart and EJ before, it's a fun engine to work on as they are relatively simple all things considered. Welded rod:

After nearly 30yrs and 300k miles (and god knows how many owners), my 1995 Legacy finally kicked the bucket and seized the stock EJ22E. Coincidentally, my '03 Legacy OBW ate the cyl #4 bearing just a few weeks before, so because I'm on a budget and looking for a bit more power for Rally Cross, I'll be taking the 251 shortblock (tore it apart last weekend to inspect it, and the internals were fine, but I will be ordering a new crank and new bearings) and putting the 22E heads on it. In this thread, I'll be trying to post updates of the process of this build as well as documenting the parts that are required for doing this project. This is my first time building an engine, so I probably won't be able to give much advice but if anyone is wanting to do this project in the future, I can share some of my experiences.

It does have one, but the cable has been disconnected. In terms of the ABS pump, I pulled the fuse to disable it because it was hyper sensitive and would just kick on randomly.

I’m definitely happy to know what the problem is now. I thought for a brief moment that I had fixed it, but then I went for a drive on some local back roads and they stuck on half way up a hill. Had to walk home to get some supplies to break it loose enough to limp it back to my house in a big ol’ cloud of brake and clutch smoke.

Update: it’s got nothing to do with the power assistance. The front left and rear right calipers jammed on.

Any recommendations for how to cap it off and would I need to cap both the manifold and the booster?

After doing an engine removal/reinstall on my '95, the brakes are stuck on, but only when the car is running. When it's off and you take the vacuum pressure out of the system (pumping the brake pedal), it rolls without any issues. I thought it was the hill holder, but that's definitely not the issue, and the fact that the brakes work as normal when the car is off says says that it's something to do with the power assist. I'm stumped on what exactly the problem could be though as I didn't touch anything related to the brake system when I took the engine out of the car. Any advice on how to fix this (or bypass the vacuum system) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

How much would you be wanting for them?

Looks like the same as what's on my '03. I'm not too bothered about having to Frankenstein it (as long as it's not terribly difficult) as it's just a project/beater car. Thanks for the help, I might have to poke around some local scrap yards.

I've got a '95 wagon that is in desperate need for some new bushings and/or shift linkage, but I'm having a hard time finding parts for it. Does anyone have recommendations for where to find these? I'm not looking to spend very much as the car is just a beater. Also, I'm assuming it's just bad linkage, but it sometimes it will only go into 1st or 2nd gear (the rest do come back though, and when they are there they feel fine, so I don't think it's a problem with the gears themselves). The shifter is also terribly sloppy and can be wobbled back and forth as if it is in neutral even when it is in gear, and 3rd sometimes moves around (sometimes it's where you's expect, sometimes it's closer to where 5th would be).