laboixlacroix

lol nothing wrong with that noobs like me appreciate it, I'm trying to hold on to mine for as long as I can too. Who knows maybe a few years from now we'll be talking about how to do electric swaps! Thanks for advice I'll give it a go and post an update this weekend!

25 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

In short, that is the correct banjo bolt. The orifice is calibrated to allow the right amount of oil into the turbo journal bearing and not over pressurize the seals and push oil into the intake. (Check the condition of the turbo drain hose returning to the block, they tend to degrade with heat and time…. The one on my ‘05 was plenty hard when I swapped the turbo.)

The banjo with a filter you are looking for is on the other end of the same feed hardline, coming from the block. That one will have large holes for oil passage and maybe a filter. Same as the banjos feeding the OCV’s.

The last place there may be a filter is on the drivers side front of the block, behind the timing belt cover. It’s super not-fun to remove, but *can* be done with the covers in place. Ask me how I know…. Member Hammerdown did a great write up on how it can be replaced without removing the covers. Worth it? I dunno, but I went ahead and did it anyway. 15k kms with no banjo filters for me and all is good…. YMMV.

Thanks for the quick reply and glad to see you're still on the forum! And okay that makes total sense, I thought the turbo only had one union bolt to it, should've looked at the manual a little longer. I'll be checking out out the other union bolt tomorrow and removing the screen if it's there. 

Here's a better picture of what I assume is the newer version that was in my car. 

I was inspecting my newly bought 05 gt wagon and I heard a lot about the banjo bolt and how the filter gathers debris and eventually starves the turbo of oil. Looking at mine I saw it was different from what i've been seeing online, mine didn't have a filter but had 1 small hole instead of two. I figured the previous mechanic put in the wrong bolt so I ordered one from Subaru and I got the same bolt again! My question is should I keep using this small union bolt? or try to find the older one that was original ( i think) one and remove the filter? My worry is that the newer one is too small and might restrict oil flow. 

newer bolt: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Turbocharger-Oil-Line-Bolt-Screw-Union-83/49227600/15194AA001.html

older bolt: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Union-Screw-and-Filter/49226885/14445AA090.html?clickSource=relatedProduct

with the older bolt, I know there's another union bolt somewhere in the engine and I might've linked that one but that's what the bolt looks like, from what I've seen online. I can provide more clarification if something didn't make sense, thank you!

54 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

You Need A New Short Block is what that means. A OEM ej257 short block is $2000, get the engine gasket kit for your year car, have the heads rebuilt. If you have metal in the oil system from a blown turbo, then replace the oil cooler. A new oil pump is a good idea either way.

It's common thing with these cars. A new member comes on here and say's I just bought the car, and driving it home, the CEL came on, or the engine blew.

My wagon had the stock oil feed lines at 305,000 miles. No need to replace what works. The thing that needs to be removed is the banjo filter on the back of the head. That filter can/will starve the turbo of oil.  You'll read about as you read the sticky's. 

Oh YNASB  doesn't sound as fun anymore but I had a feeling I'd be doing this anyway. Okay so let me know if i got this right; I'm going to need a new short block and will need a shop to work on the pistons and block to make sure they're the same circumference, I might as well get stronger rods that handle more hp, then upgrade the head gasket with the multilayer metal sheet ones, lastly upgrade the engine bearings with better than stock ones. Then taking care of the oil cooler and pump and figure out weather the turbo is reparable. This is what i've learned so far from this wiki lmk how that sounds ?

I'm so surprised i even got any replies on this post, thank you everyone for taking time to read about my car. Seems like we got a nice healthy community here I'm glad to be apart of it and hope to contribute any knowledge i learn in the future!!

22 hours ago, Pleides said:

Do you plan on keeping this car stock? Cuz if not, that's a lot of "while you're in theres."

These cars are old now and incredibly hard to keep running without a lot of care. You will need to regularly check your oil level and use premium fuel without exception. With the price you paid for the car, if it's on its original engine I would start saving up for a new one. Can knock out all that much easier with the engine out of the car, apart from the struts which, if you want to upgrade the handling of the car, definitely inquire here.

 

Gotta say though... whoever owned your car prior did not take care of it if the intake cam gear is rubbing on the timing cover... wondering if they maybe hit something and replaced the bumper?

Yeah I know I'm for a treat with how hard these cars are to maintain hahaha I have moments where I feel in over my head with it. For now I'm planning on getting it running with stock parts and upgrading the turbo oil lines( I hear those are prone to going out). I'm going to try and keep the same engine for now then taking your advice on a new engine block and look at getting beefer parts. Yeah I don't know much about the last person that owned but they had it for only 10k miles and was bought from a dealer last year for 6k. Also what does "while you're in theres." mean? never heard that one before hahaha

20 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Hope you have deep pockets or a lot of tools. 

Tune up for $535, the plugs are about $40. They may have been including the coils. But my coils lasted till 305,000 miles.

Fuel service ??? just dump a can of Chemtool B12 from Walmart in the gas tank, I do that yearly.

Cabin air filter, if you have a early build, mine was May 28 2004, it didn't come with a cabin air filter.

Rear diff. holds .8qt of fluid, easy to drain and fill. Make sure you remove the fill plug first, then the drain plug. You need to make sure you can fill it before you find out you can't remove the fill plug.

Most big name auto parts will read the CEL for free.

 

Right front tranny seal, is that the axle seal ? the seal is a few bucks. the right seal is different then the left seal, the scrappers face a different direction. 

To replace the intake tube, lift the whole intake at the TGV's to Heads, the tube is like $90. it's mostly labor.

New turbo is $1200, Jmp6889928 is the member who rebuilds them. My Tuner "tuningalliance@gmail.com" will rebuild yours too. He is the Tuner you'll want to use if you need, he is one of the two best in the county.

The timing belt kit should be done while fixing the worn covers. Aisin is the kit to use.

Starter, easy to replace, auto parts store will have one for about $120. There's a DIY for greasing the OEM unit. I did mine once on a buddies lift in 15 minutes.

Look at the stickys at the tops of the forums, and look at the DIY walk through's too.

You're the real mvp! yeah the price the mechanic listed seems like they charge way too much on labor thanks for the advice on fixing everything, definitely will be using it along with the Aisin kit. I will be looking at reaching out to Jmp6889928 and see what can be done about the turbo. As far as I know, going off the previous person they said something was wrong with the oil lines and it's causing the turbo to fail. Thanks for telling about those tutorials I didn't know that was there, I'll be using them to figure out why the cam gear is rubbing against the timing cover. THANK YOU for the manuel!!

14 hours ago, Haze said:

Nice car, looks to be one of the coveted non-Limited GTs with cloth seats and no sunroof.

I would suggest you keep the Avalon and learn everything you can about turbo Subarus. If you have to rely on a shop for everything with one of these, it can get expensive. It's also not a bad idea to have a backup car when you're rolling in an 18 year old LGT that you have recently done a lot of work to.

Yessssir!! Yeah my plan is to learn everything I can and save up for the parts and tools like and engine hoist then get to work on it. It does have the cloth seats with seat warmers, I'd take these over the leather ones mostly because it can get so hot and sticky in the summer. I used to have 05 outback l.l. bean edition with the tan leather interior and winter was nice but summers made me mad lol. 

3 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Nice looking wagon!

Keep the Toyota if you can afford to. It will probably not break down on you at least. One better. Keep it as your winter beater and never let that sweet looking GT see salt and sand….

All those jobs are totally doable with a decent tool set, a floor jack and some jack stands. It’ll be some money in parts, sure, but for what you paid for the car?….. I think you’ll do alright. Also, if cosmetics aren’t priority #1 right now, there are a few you can skip entirely. (My gearbox has been leaking as long as I’ve had my GT. Probably had to add a total of 200mL of gear oil in 6 years to keep it topped up…)

Staying stock power will give that engine a longer life, considering it’s unknown history…

Nice buy. My favourite way to get old cars at low prices is to but them from people who get jaw-dropper repair bills and just want them gone. Usually half the ‘repairs’ aren’t needed and the other half aren’t hard, if you have the tools.

Thank you! You made me feel better my purchase and brought hope to my subie heart lol. Yeah I think keeping it stock for now is the way to go until I finish school next year and bring in the big bucks to upgrade the parts. These mechanics prices can be ridiculous wish I knew that when I was younger. Anyway thank you for for the solid advice. 

1 hour ago, blackobxt said:

That is a hell of a deal. I’d decide on how much you really love that car and go from there. Get some tools and learn how to do it yourself but something about this thread screams YNASB is in your future

YEEEAAAA not sure what YNASB  means but looking forward to it!!!

Hi everyone I recently bought a 05 LGT Manuel for 2,000$ with 143k miles. I’m thinking of starting to work on fixing the problems the car has in the spring time. Either that or selling my current daily( 06 Avalon ) and taking it to turbo shop. I’m leaning more towards taking it to my mechanic who’s specialized in Subarus and have him tell me what’s wrong then fixing it my self. I’m still in college so money is right but this id my dream car and the deal was too good to pass up. The shop prices picture listed is from the previous owner and is why they sold it. I drove the car back an hour and half to my place and it felt decent. The turbo still spools and boosts. Does anyone have to do list when they first purchase one of these and/or have useful threads to follow or any kind of advice is welcome!!  But yeah just wanted to introduce my self here and show off my new car haha.