CasopoliS

[sOLD]

Hello,

Been a long time since I have sold anything on these forums! Hopefully this post abides by the rules. Digging through some boxes I found these, never installed them. Comes with 2 horns, a generic straight bracket, and relay.

Looking around, these sell for ~$35-40 new.

So, I think $20 + s/h sounds reasonable? Depending on the service, I assume shipping isn't too expensive. I'll need to look into that based on your address.

Thanks,

Jon

I attached pictures of one of the largest projects I have completed. Hopefully they show up in order.

The base was made using 30" wall cabinets built up on a 6" platform. The counter top was made using a 3/4" MDF base, and 3/4" pre-fab panels on top (screwed and glued to make it solid and 1.5" thick overall). Faced with 1x2 to make it look like a butcher block style top. Stained + five coats of varnish.

The shelves were made out of MDF and poplar. Painted them in my yard with a spray gun, then installed and caulked all the seams to hide shadows. I made everything slightly short in height so it was easy to install, and used crown molding at the top to hide the gap (inside and out). Since the shelves split the existing return air grate, I built a custom one using stamped sheet metal.

For scale, this is 14.5 feet wide and 9 feet tall. That is a 60" TV in the last picture. I did not add up all the costs, but the cabinets were the most expensive single component. The rest was just wood and labor.

There's also overflow alarms on the saniflo, and you can clearly here it's performance even through a wall (which is good, so you can keep an eye/ear on things)

Thanks for that great feedback. I am not going to have a lot of headroom, and I know a concrete cutter... so I might just bury a grinder pump/crock setup. I think it might be quieter in the floor as well, and with the large volume of the crock it will not pump that often.

Your bathroom turned out really nice.

Its a long term project, just trying to plan ahead and budget.

Great thread. We built in 2010 and I am constantly trying to think of ways to upgrade. This year will be a 150' asphalt drive ($$$). Right now I am building built-ins which are 16' long and 9' tall. Its been an intensive project.

We will eventually finish the basement. I will need to add plumbing for a bathroom, but we will need to pump out to our septic system. So, I either have to cut the concrete away and plumb into a sealed crock... or buy one of those above-the-floor systems where the grinder pump sits behind the wall and you build up the shower and toilet. Like this:

Does anyone have experience with these systems / any advice?

http://www.saniflo.com/upload/images/EXTEPIPECROPWEBSITE.jpg

k, I just found this thread, and as a Mech Eng design engineer with access to a full shop (and machinists to make my desires) I've got a few things already done, but are fairly specific.

 

2 gauge cubby pod: to hold 2 52mm gauges (specifically designed to PLX guages) and still close the cubby door (for parking in creepy places). I can't promise it'll hold anyone elses gauges though. I also made 2 other revisions that have usb ports (one revision with 1 port, 1 with 2 ports) built in for logging/flashing. it seemed a good idea, but having cables coming out the dash sucked, and I used some "expensive" usb port parts available on Mouser.

 

Clock housing redo: I hated the reflection off my clock face, it was super scratched up, and the mounting parts were cracked/broken. I got a 1/8th thick piece of smoked plexi and a printed part to mount it to and all was well. I also removed the front panel "clock set" buttons, so a little rewiring is needed, and have to remove the dash piece to reset the clock for daylight savings or after battery replacement. Also, I only have a clock, so i'd have to modify the part for anyone with the other version of clock that has temp too.

 

- In thinking about it right now, could add a spot to hold a cellphone in landscape for GPS navigation or something...

 

AUX/USB/test connector center console panel: This is to give me a spot to have a usb plug into for datalogging/flashing, and a different way to connect the green test connector for flashing. it's all located with the radio AUX port in the center console. a lot of extra parts needed to make this all work, but I've got it listed in my build thread (as with the others too). I will admit the USB port part is pretty specific, but I can link the specific cord you need.

 

 

Let me know if anyone's interested and I can supply the files to the community. I can also do a more in-depth writeup of the other items that need purchased, and how it all goes together.

 

ALSO: If anyone knows of a good way to get a small digital readout/display for oil temp and/or pressure (or whatever), i'd be up for modifying the clock housing to mount gauge readouts...

 

i'm also working on a AVO TMIC to stock splitter adapter, so I can remove my engine cover and still have a seal with the stock hood splitter.

Nice work man. I use thin OLED glass displays in some instruments at work and can give you the contact for a direct supplier... though you have to know what you are doing to program them. We have an EE for that so I don't ever worry about it. ME here as well.

Its crazy where technology has brought us. I bought my first 3D printer for $15k and that was USED! It was the size of a fridge. I later sold it for $11k when I noticed the technology start to evolve. Best move I ever did.

Very cool on the vent pod, especially if you can somehow keep some of the vent capability.

People that buy these could paint them with plasti-dip, or acetone them, or maybe felt them (or combination of the above).

had some car trouble this morning, started in -24 c this morning let it warm up as i was eating breaky .

 

half mile down the road it stalls ..

start it up and runs rough and boost gauge all twitchy.

 

drove back.. pulled the valve covers off.. found a broken valve spring.

 

changed it out took 20 min and continued back to work.

 

weird there comp cams springs rated for 700" lift and i'm only using .500 lift cam.

 

ah well

Its funny, it takes some people that long to change a spare tire or install an air filter. Congrats on being baller when it comes to engines / automobiles.

People have every right to challenge and question new vendors, I agree. You have to feel comfortable about where your money is going and who you are giving it to.

Tide and the other mods would probably agree with the above statement. They aren't asking you to bow down to vendors. They are asking you to change your approach.

Bad approach:

"OMG baller industries what a lame name! Your turbos must be baller-bearing turbos" Here, let me even make a lame logo for you just to make fun of you a little more.

The thread contained more critiquing than legit, laid-out questions. Everyone made it clear how sketchy this guy seemed, and how lame his company name was, and where credibility was lacking... and we are all entitled to that opinion... but I did not see many clear cut questions asking for this additional information. If there were specific questions, they were smothered in-between all the bashing posts, idiotic responses, all of which are from people probably not even in the market for his products.

You want answers? Stop acting childish and freaking ask questions. Perhaps a better approach would lend more response from this new vendor.

Good approach:

Can you give us some of your background, do you have a website? Referrals? How can we feel confident purchasing products from you? What are your plans for test cars, proven results, etc, etc? What are your capabilities? Why should I buy from you?

Sure, that is all in a perfect world... but if I were buying from someone I didn't know, those are the questions I would ask.

Then again, this is the internet (not a perfect world)... so its hard to expect that exact response. I think the moderators are asking for a little better approach and some constructive criticism rather than useless bantering. Its tough to say "grow up" to a bunch of people on the internet, but in effect, that is what they are trying to say.

I am not standing up for baller-instustries nor are we affiliated - just standing up for forum moderation. The forum has changed in the past 5 years, I think all of us that have been here a while can agree with that.

 

The hot side end tank does heat soak, but all that matters is temp at outlet. If you have consistently lower temps at outlet, it doesn't matter what the other side of the intercooler is doing.

 

I can agree that outlet temps are all that matter, but outlet temps are directly related to inlet temps.

What matters is the delta... the true performance of a heat exchanger. These are all things I am sure you know.

PartyRock, I totally disagree with a cheap FMIC being "the best way to go". I have not read through this whole thread but its certainly not about the money (some of it is, of course). I personally stay away from FMIC unless the setup absolutely needs it. It all depends on the goals, but many people's goals do not require it. BTW have you ever installed FMIC's in the LGT or driven with one for a number of miles?

BAC: I have designed an AWIC setup before and the results were quite good.

I hate to join, this seems to mostly be a pissing match... I laugh reading most of it.

Just for reference...

Green = 1.2mm pill

Blue = 1mm pill

Same WGDC table and boost target table for both logs.

vf43 + fmic + catless DP

(not my car, but someone else's)

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/3197/oldvsnewpill.jpg

Sure I dont mind, I have been using PCB-Pool http://www.pcb-pool.com/ppus/index.html for my latest boards and I have been very happy with their service.

 

They are offering a promotion which includes a free laser cut steel stencil. Really aids in the assembly process.

 

Thats funny. I have used Screaming circuits before, and I think they have top notch service and turn-around times. I love the fact that they will order all the parts, the board, and assemble it. Really great turn key solution. However to keep the cost down on my products I am doing pick and place by hand and then running them through a small re-flow oven.

Thanks! Right now I am using Screaming Circuits but costs are getting high and it would be nice to find other places. They also X-ray to do QC on the really small stuff.

who do you use to make the PCBs if you don't mind me asking? Do you populate it yourself?

I have used PCB Express in the past and Screaming Circuits to populate.

AFR is important and yes it changes. Once you have boost locked down, it does not change much unless you develop a leak. AFRs can change for a number of issues. I think they are both important, but you don't need to see them both at the same time.

The LC-1 has a 2 conductor male headphone jack output. I am sure you would be able to put a right angle PCB mounted headphone jack on this guy. The pins would be the communication lines in the RS232. I think its 2 conductor, but I guess it could be 3.

The other option is to use the modifiable analog output which might be easier... actually that is the better option because it still allows the user to also log over RS232. Just set the 0-5V scale permenantly and tell the LC-1 owners what output they should program into the LC-1.

Does the street tuner software marry itself to 1 computer?

 

I plan on getting a new laptop and was just going to buy the software when it that time comes.

 

But i also need a new tune, and the shop i might use doesnt have a protuner license.

when you go to install the software, it asks you to connect the AP and it wipes the AP completely and adds some stuff to it. I do not think you can skip this step, so I am not sure how it works. I guess you can wipe the AP twice, just save your maps on laptop #1, and when you install the software on laptop #2, it will wipe the AP and you will need to put the maps back on it.

There is probably an easier way, but this is just my guess.

Hey its me again!!!!

Question....

When the engine is cold, partial throttle conditions suck. Car stumbles on itself, bucks a little sometimes, and really jerky acceleration during partial throttle. As the engine warms up it gets MUCH better and about the same it normally is I would say. (my partial throttle has never been great but nothing like this)

So it all comes down to the tune I guess, I never used to have this before... and now that I am WOT tuning with Street Tuner it seems partial throttle is not so great. I guess I am not sure how the cold engine plays a role. I need educated here.

Edmundu gave me his tip-in values, which made it great when I first get on the gas... no matter the condition. But this is different. This is when I first start the car and just drive out of my neighborhood. If I put the pedal down, its not that bad... but when I just want to mosey down the road at 35 and make a few turns, when I slightly tap the gas after the turn the car just acts drunk.

Educate the n00b.

back to my last map, the injector values for the STi don't quite work well on the LGT.

Car pulls hard, but I am still getting used to the spool of this turbo. When I first put the turbo on it was colder out so spool was quick and more stock-like. Now it is getting warmer and spool sucks! Just something to get used to. Maybe that is something to toy around with later...

That is the plan, although we have not had the time available for testing. I will try to make this a greater priority. You should be able to follow the tuning guide to establish the proper fuel injector table settings. Please let me know how that goes for you. How did you like the new tuning guide and worksheet?

 

Take care,

Christian.

The new worksheet is nice. I am using the sti values for the 740cc, whichever were listed in that thread. How much of a difference do you think there is for the LGT?

I loaded the Deatschwerks 740cc values from the file. I loaded the scaler, the latencies, and the tip-in. I am going to see how this effects things, and compare it to my previous logs. Tip-in and latencies on the map I had were much different. Who knows which ones are best for my setup.... but I will find out here.

Next step is intake calibration.....

Christian.... you should add STi injectors to the Legacy GT list since we share the same injector style and can both use the same injectors (i.e. the DW 740cc).

404 not found on the injector scaling guide

EDIT - fixed

I found adjusting the Closed loop delays A,B,C to 100 helped with this. rao posted about this a while back and it worked, makes the transition from closed to open loop a lot smoother and takes away a lot of the famous “stutter”

thanks!! good tip.