Kilzon

Thank you for the advice. You said to top it “right”. What did you mean ? 

On 3/12/2023 at 3:24 PM, m sprank said:

Start the car.  While sitting stationary at idle turn the wheel left to right slowly.  Full lock to full lock.  Will need to add fluid as air dissipates.  As steering becomes smooth, the air is leaving. 

Can be done on ground, but it wears your tires. 

On 3/12/2023 at 11:14 PM, m sprank said:

I assumed the wheel would be turned a few times wirh the engine off.  Never bled a system completely without the pump running. Never had an issue with premature failure of a pump.  Changed hundreds, if not thousands of pump o-rings but few complete pump failures in comparison. Don't recall a single warranty on a pump.  Did always have an assistant at the res to add fluid and check for foam.   A few shudders as air passed and thats it.  

On 3/13/2023 at 8:18 AM, m sprank said:

Is the wheel locked?  With no power assist and the car on the ground the wheel will give more resistance to turn.  But if it is seized, is the rack air bound?  Did you replace the  o-ring, pump, rack, lines?

On 3/13/2023 at 9:52 AM, m sprank said:

If you turn the key to the "on" position so that the gauges sweep the wheel should be unlocked at that point.  You can feel when the wheel locks and unlocks.  Otherwise the you should be able to turn the wheel although it may take hand over hand and a good amount of resistance.  Ever drive a car with no power assisted steering?  Just rack and pinion?  You get Popeye forearms from driving at low speed. 

21 hours ago, KZJonny said:

This is more of a home alignment thing, but it's worth a shot if you have the materials...

Per side, use a couple of old floor tiles / thin peices of plastic / ?thin cardboard if you have to?

Put a good smear of general purpose grease between the sheets/tiles, etc.... slide under tires with car lifted up a bit, or drive on to them. Whatever.

Just gives the wheels/tires something to rotate on without shredding the tires.

 

And this might be too obvious, but have you tried 'jiggling' the wheel a bit while turning to the ON position to unlock it? Mine will sometimes not want to unlock if I've moved it while it was off without messing with it a bit...

12 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

If you put tension on the wheel, do you feel the lock release when you turn the key to different stages?

13 hours ago, m sprank said:

Is the issue in the column? Something cause the lock to engage but not disengage? Cars not getting any younger. My left knee likes to lock and not bend for a few days. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Possibly, but if the problem in the column I don’t know how to check it 

1 hour ago, Zac88 said:

before the initial startup, I kept the PS belt off and turned the pump by hand a for a few minutes to get air out.

Did it help  ? 

No, I don’t feel that, it stays blocked not matter what. I can move the wheel only when engine is on. 

I did try that but It didn’t work out 

When I turn the key to the “on” position nothing changes, wheel doesn’t move anywhere. Idk what the problem is 

I haven’t replaced anything yet. And I don’t think that wheel is locked, since when engine is on, i can turn it with no problem. 

Here is a problem, I can’t turn my steering wheel if my cars isn’t on. And I don’t understand what’s wrong. I turn the key to the first position, nothing changes, I still can’t turn the wheel, I turn the ignition on and it’s still not moving. Is it common thing for this generation ? Because I saw videos on YouTube who were working on pervious generations and they could turn the steering wheel while car is off. 

Are you sure it’s safe to start the car ? Won’t it damage the pump ? Since there will be some air inside. 

I’m about to DIY replace my power steering pump since it’s leaking. I know that once I replace it I’ll have to bleed the system from the air in it. Could you give me any tips how I should do the bleeding process? 

Do they deliver parts to your door ? 

Recently I found a leak in my transmission cooling line. ( nothing serious just one of rubber hoses needs to be replaced)

I am curious about transmission fluid level. When car is cool and I haven't start my car yet, dipstick shows that it's full( cold) but once I start my car and check fluid level as manual says.( Engine is on and and transmission is set in parking position) while car is still cold, dipstick is dry like there is no fluid at all. I have this leak for a while, and I add some fluid periodically through the pipe where dipstick is placed (I use funnel) to be sure that it has at least something in there.

Here I should mention that there is no driving issues, transmission works like a clock.

Does it mean that there is actually not enough fluid in my transmission?

Recently I found a leak in my transmission cooling line. it turned out that one of the  hoses that are connected to the transmission is leaking.  

Due to that I don't wat to spend money in repair shop, I decided to replace it myself since it seems to be an easy fix.

The only thing I am struggling with is that I don't know where I can buy these two hoses besides dealership ( these guys wanted me to pay 77$ for 2 hoses and 4 new clamps for them). 

The questions is: Does anyone know where I can buy parts like that ? ( with delivery)

 Parts numbers: 45520N; 45520O; W170062

4 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

 

Just saying, that Full line is the "Full" when "HOT" line. 

 

The weep hole in the water pump may be dripping onto the undercover pan, You may not notice the leak under car as it blows away while driving. ?

I agree with the Pressure test idea. Or, most good repair shops will have a HC tester they can wave around the radiator cap with the running engine to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant system.

Damn, man. I thought that the “full” line  is when it’s cold.  

Considering this fact. Is it possible that coolant just evaporating somehow ? 

On 10/19/2022 at 12:53 PM, apexi said:

I haven't heard of this in my time here. How much coolant are you consuming?

Heater core leak inside dash? Blue smoke is oil, is there excessive white smoke? In your shoes I'd buy my own cooling system pressure tester, where you can pump air into the cooling system and look for leaks everywhere, especially @ radiator too.

Could you suggest any pressure tester ? 

So, I keep coolant on “full” And have to add half of reserve tank every two weeks.
There is no signs of  leak in head gasket (internal). As I said, no any kinds of smoke(no blue, no white smoke), no milkshake in my oil, no bubbles in reserve tank. Also I haven’t seen any plunges of coolant under my car

is it possible that coolant evaporates somehow ? 

On 10/19/2022 at 12:53 PM, apexi said:

I haven't heard of this in my time here. How much coolant are you consuming?

Heater core leak inside dash? Blue smoke is oil, is there excessive white smoke? In your shoes I'd buy my own cooling system pressure tester, where you can pump air into the cooling system and look for leaks everywhere, especially @ radiator too.

. 

Hello, I have 2009 legacy 2.5 limited. It consumes coolant without showing any kinds of leaks. I have no milkshake in my oil, no blue smoke, no bubbles in reserve tank. I replaced timing belt and everything what is related to this procedure (pulleys, water pump, etc). Mechanic said that there was a leak in water pump and since he replaced it we expected that consumption will stop but it only became worse. He said that I have external leak in head gasket but only oil is leaking. I haven't talked to him about coolant leak yet. 

Has anyone faced with this problem before? I can't find the reason of coolant consumption. 

I’m curious if it’s ok to mix original Subaru coolant and “Aisin” blue coolant. They are both blue but idk if it’s fine to mix them since they are different brand. (Car is filled with Aisin and I just need to top my reserve tank.  I have some original Subaru coolant) 

2009 Subaru legacy 2.5i limited non turbo 

I noticed that white smoke(looks more like steam) started going out of my AC in the cabin. Once I pulled over, I opened a hood and figured out that smoke goes out of my engine on passenger side somewhere from behind of a timing belt. I can’t say how that smoke smells like, because it’s neither sweet nor burning oil.( it definitely smells like smth is burning but I can’t say what for sure)  I definitely know that my power-steering pump is leaking( I’m wondering if power steering fluid drops on the exhaust and evaporating but I’m not sure.) My mechanic said that my head gasket has an external leak(oil) not really significant and idk if it is the reason. My car is not overheating, there is no milk-shake in my oil, no whittle smoke from exhaust, also I don’t see bubbles in my coolant reserve tank. Car runs well no lack of power or smth. Did anyone have the same problem?