Phosoup253

Only 2 bell housing bolts temporarily mating the tranny/motor so should be quick work removing the engine. I will take pics and video as soon as I separate them without messing with inner clutch components and hopefully someone can spot what might be causing the issue. 
I’ll double check the clutch fork for straightness as well. 

I agree it does look hyperextended, the issue is once I push the pin back to where it begins look in place, it no longer reaches the clutch fork. 

I have a clear view of the spring and it’s seated fine. Two prongs on the side are in the hole and the bottom portion protruding out the bottom of the fork at an angle. 

No it’s protruding straight on the fork, but i do know what you mean with it angled down. 
I’m starting to think it’s the pressure plate , no real reason why but I’m running out of reason what the problem might be. 

I can pull engine and take more pics if till who narrow down what the issue might be, only have one bell housing bolt in currently. 

Clutch fork loose/lots of play. I noticed my slave cylinder pin looks further out than it should be, I included a photo with a quarter for reference. 
I ended pulling the motor and inspecting the components. Pivot ball looks fine, I ended up replacing throw out bearing and clutch fork and inner spring even though there were no issue with the old ones.  I’m stumped, any ideas?

Thinking about purchasing an 08 OBXT that was towed incorrectly w/ front wheels on the ground. 

From what’s I’ve gathered any 07-09 lgt, obxt and 3.0r would be a direct replacement. Other than needed a new transmission, do I need to worry about anything else that might have been damaged? Rear diff needs attention or replace also? 
Any way this transmission can be saved using donor parts off 05-06 5eat? Those are dimes a dozen where I live but finding 07-09 proving harder than I expected.

Just installed motor on my 05 LGT, everything seemed fine until I went to start the car. It cranked over and started first try but there was an obnoxious sound like metal banging so I immediately turned it off. 
Fearing the worse I decided to turn the engine over manually from the crank and it rotated fine but I can clearly hear something grinding in the bell housing area. Stubborn as I was I did cranked the engine over a few more times. 
I say about 3/10 times I did get the car to start and idle but of course it made the same noise. 
After pulling engine back out i now know the root cause for the noise but still a little confuse on the inconsistent start up. Something else I should look into before i correct the problem and throw this back in? No cel codes or anything like that.

Also anybody have helicoil size for a stripped starter bolt for bellhousing. 

Had cel light for LH intake runner stuck open. Looks like at resting the driver side flap is fully closed in the housing and the piece the sensor attaches to is in the vertical position. Passenger side is completely opposite with the flaps fully opened and sensor piece in horizontal position. 
Is this normal, should they both be closed or open? 
Also this sensor is all mangled, garbage get a new one? 
 

Purposely left heat shield off so I can get a better visual of any potential leaks. 

Vf52 turbo on my outback xt unknown miles, came in a trade bulk deal from a while ago. 
I can see what I’m assuming is coolant bubbling between the turbo and downpipe mating surface. Does this indicate a blown turbo seal?  

After waiting close to a month  for my type ra shortblock to arrive, here’s what I found when unboxing. Damaged dowel pin guide and scuffing on head mating surface. 

Cross my fingers and hopefully they’ll refund hassle free since I didn’t report without 24 hours or would I be good just replacing new dowels and running it with that scuffing? 
 

Yeah I figured those dowels weren’t a big deal but that scuff is a little concerning. Going to see what the company says, I didn’t order straight from Subaru but a well known business. 

Decided to just do a new shortblock assembly for the legacy and this was what I found when the package arrived. 
Dowel pin bent and block surface has slight a chip. Hopefully they’ll accept my return, didn’t get to open when it arrived was late for work and came just before thanksgiving. Very upset right now. 
 

Thoughts?

Yeah think my next move is just go a size up in bolt size and re thread 

Yeah there are some gouging on the sealing surfaces I’m not so proud of. Combination of being frustrated, back problems and not being the most patient individual led me to being a little careless while tackling this job with the limited space. 
Luckily I didn’t put everything back together so pulling engine should take no longer than 30 min. I’ll have this on a stand and take some better pics. 

Beyond repair? Yeah I scuff the mating surface pretty bad as well. 
 

05 LGT

Screwed up one of my water pump block thread. Over torqued the bolt to 13ft lbs and sure enough the bolt broke. In the process of extracting the bolt, I seemed to made it worse.

At that point I’ve decided to just get the correct heli coil kit and make a new thread. Just when I thought all was well, it wasn’t. I didn’t center the heli coil so back to square one. 

I’ve tried gasket maker and just 5/6 bolts holding the pump on but still leaks. 
Any suggestions?
Such a shame, was a low mileage longblock too at 65k 

15 mins in then got pretty tired. (Lazy) Should have out by tomorrow morning if I can find the time. 

Considering it. Pulling this thing parts to throw a single mass flywheel and some preventative maintenance gaskets timing belts and whatnot. 
Let’s see if I come across anything peculiar along the way. 

$140** 

Pacific Import Auto Tacoma, Washington 

Haven’t tried logging anything but I feel like it’s something fuel related also. 
Having a well known Subaru shop in my area take a look, they’re thinking it’s some type of vacuum leak base off my symptoms.  kinda gave up at this point I’d gladly pay $40 for a diagnosis from professionals.

 I’ll check back in once it’s figured out  
 

2005 legacy gt 5mt wagon 

Bone stock replacement ej255 engine 60k

Generic chinese vf40 replacement turbo and lightweight flywheel are only two parts that are not oem factory. 
Car stalls out very inconsistently and only when coasting in neutral. Doesn’t happen all the time, sometimes doesn’t even happen at all. I’ve found a solution when coming to a stop by just leaving it in gear and holding down clutch slowing to avoid potentially stalling out. I’ll be able to put in neutral after coming to complete stop without car stalling. 

Not sure if the the turbo with the stock tune playing a roll in dipping the idle down or lightweight flywheel causing any idling or dipping issues? Also, anybody else running stock t-50+ dual mass flywheels bolts on their single mass or light weight flywheel? Is this recommended. Thinking about pulling motor just to throw a single mass flywheel with correct bolts but seems like a lot a work if not necessary. 

Any insight regarding those two issues would be appreciated. 

Figured it out, car was in valet mode.

fixed 

Just checked and there are no loose or disconnect wires. 
I have an 06 Wrx wagon as well, and what I would notice differently from the two is that when I would arm the Wrx, I would get a steady pause light pause light on the security dash. 
However on the legacy I would get an instant rapid security light as soon as I arm the car and before it goes off, it’ll have two steady lights. 
Hope this all makes sense.