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Posts posted by Spec-Beast
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Just like how I get ads for whole home water filter systems. I've only spoke to my wife about it a couple of times. I've never looked anything up [emoji89][emoji89]Funny, today I got an email from Global Industrial, talking about safety glasses... not that the web monitors things...Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
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Spark plugs , serp belt. Then once the important stuff is done it will make it's way to Boostcreep in Longmont, CO for a dyno tune.Some of us have to wear glasses no matter what. But until I was in my early 40's, like most, I didn't wear them.Glad you got the fluids changed, what's next ?
I also found the source of my slight coolant smell after driving. I have two very small leaks, one is leading to the expansion tank and the other one (same size) just below the radiator. I'll probably fix those and do a flush while I'm at it
BTW getting the car level was a nightmare there in Colorado.
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Well, the great diff fluid saga continues.
I encountered a few issues. The rear drain plug was seized , so I sucked out what I could through the fill hole, it took about .6 quarts, so it looks like I couldn't get it all.
The front plug came out fine but when filling back up I dropped and cracked a whole bottle of fluid. So now I'm waiting for NAPA to open so I can top it off woth some liqui moly 75-90.
I wanted to say thanks to everyone who advised me on the rear drain plug. I could have been in a way worse "tow to the shop" situation.
Cautionary tale to all the kids who think "safety glasses are optional". I've been working on my cars and motorcycles for years and rarely put on safety glasses. Well yesterday I took a full shot of brake cleaner to the eye after it bounced back on me. I thought I was off enought to the side to avoid it. WRONG! talk about pain! Luckily I was pretty close to running water,so I flushed it for a good 5 minutes. Pain lingered through the rest of the job, but no damage done.
Be safe out there people. Use your jack stands and your eye wear.
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I appreciate the input. I would hate to alienate you because your advice is invaluable. My ex lockheed-martin engineer father in law almost demanded me to try it. I told him I would, but if I don't like the feel then I'll switch to motul.Didn't I tell you Motul Gear 300 is the best stuff for these.Amsoil Severgear is also good, but I stopped using that years ago. Others have had good luck with it. I also use Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic doing 7000-8000 mile oil changes after hearing back from Blackstone Labs. I have a preferred customer # with them.
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Hey folks,
After an exhausting search and conflicting information, I figured I would put a post.
I'm changing the diff fluids on my 06 spec, with redline 75-90. I've contacted flatiron tuning and redline directly. Flatirons says I need the NS version for front and rear, but redline says NS for the front and standard for the rear.
Im lost in the world of fluids and I need help!
Thanks for taking the time reading this. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse.
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Did a full fluid change but I believe my father in-law added a full 5qts of 5w30 [emoji1751]. Debating draining some tomorrow.
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It's an 06 spec-b so it's a 5mtWhich tranny?With a manual, the transmission shares gear oil with the front diff.
With an automatic, the front diff is separate from the transmission for lube/fluid.
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I think I'm gonna go with Schaeffers fluids across the board.5mt or 5eat ?For my 5mt and rear diff. It's not cheap, but its the best. tranny takes 3.8qt's rear diff .8qt. Fill the tranny slowly, I use my suction gun to push it into the fill tube. A new crush washer on the drain plug is a good idea too. Oh, remove the fill plug on the rear diff before you remove the drain plug, I learned that the hard way.
I use drive belts from the auto parts store.
There may be a DIY in that forum below.
We assume the timing belt has been replaced when it was 10 years old
You can ask "google" how to change fluid...
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Hey all,
I'll be taking my 06 GT to Jackson, WY for work this summer and the closest shop is about 1 1/2 hours away. My local shop recommended the 60k service, but being 1400 that's out of my budget. With that being said I need to be selective on whats done. So I have a few questions that I know y'all will have some great answers for.
1) All my fluids under the hood look fine, but I would like to just change the diff fluid for piece of mind since I don't know when it was changed last.
A) Is this a straight forward
process?
B) Is there a people's choice
fluid?
C) From what I understand
changing the front diff also
changes trans fluid?
2) I've noticed some wear on the serpentine belt and AC belt, so definitely an area of concern.
A) How does one know when the
correct tension has been applied?
B) Is this an OEM only type of
replacement or is aftermarket the
goto?
I really appreciate anyone who took the time to read/resond. If you have any ideas besides the standard tire pressure,brakes etc please let me know. I've had terrible luck with used cars lately and would like to stay ahead of the curve.
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[emoji106]Separate thread to keep on topic but it isn't uncommon to have to top the coolant on these fussy old gals.Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
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Now it seems I have a coolant leak somewhere, the over flow tank has receded from full to just above the min line. It did recently have a thermostat put in and I'm wondering if it's still burping? I do have a slight slight coolant smell after running kinda hard. Looks like I have another problem to tackle after the brakes.
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I'm going to resurface the rotor (just in case). If that fails to do anything, then you'll see me going down the road with my head out the window like my dog. If that doesn't work, then she's going to the Subie doctor and let the real professionals handle it. Instead of a chef by day and a tire kicker by night.Just trying to save you unnecessary and somewhat costly work if it isn't needed. Good luck with it.Maybe have someone else take the wheel and get in the back seat. Heck I have hung out a window and ridden in a trunk trying to chase a noise lol.
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You're correct on the wheel bearing. The car is new to me as our the brakes. It just didn't sound normal to me The sound reflects heavily off highway barriers, a sound I've never heard before even after running brembos on 5 previous cars.No Brembos here but I do have drilled and slotted rotors. They make noise and have a feeling for sure.I think you need to make sure you have a bad wheel bearing. Not that they don't go bad but your description doesn't match in terms of failure.
Now that I see your brakes.....could totally be those and just something you have to get used to. How old are they? Is the car new-er to you? As in have you had this car with different brakes that didn't make the noise?
A 25 mph click isn't a wheel bearing. It's a half shaft or brakes. Wheel bearing hum and get louder with speed and load in my experience.
Ride bicycles at all? Anything with disc brakes? Similar noise when applying brakes on thr bike?
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I double checked all tires multiple times , nothing at all. The sound stops under braking but after 3 attempts of taking them apart the problem still exists. After searching the web for a bit I've found other people that say the noise will go away after 1000 miles or so. This being cause by the cross drilled rotors, seems to happen with the brembo rotors more frequently.I'm on timken for all 4 corners.Maybe a stupid question, do you have something stuck in your tire tread?
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No worries! I'm finding OEM from 150-200. That's totally worth it, considering I'm coming from a 7.3 power stroke Excursion where I paid 2300 for an oil cooler and steering box [emoji1787]OEM is great but quite spendy I believe.Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
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Install that one over OEM?
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When replacing the wheel bearing , is it standard practice to replace the entire hub?
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I restest the clips, greased them, and the appropriate spots on the caliper and pads. I am convinced it's a wheel bearing, so I'll do that this coming Thursday. Updates to come.Pad clip hitting rotor? Maybe that'd make more of a squeal, but doesn't hurt to check.Found this random pic on google to visualize what I mean
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So I just pulled in the dust cover a bit and checked the tire for debris/foreign object, there was none. Still the tick tick tick, maybe a warped rotor? But I don't notice any shaking during braking.I doubt that is the culprit but you could probably get a new set of pads under warranty if you are nice to the parts guys.Dust shield? Rock in a tire?
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Update:Changing the wheel bearing Thursday. I'm confident that's the issue.
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Hey all, I have a chick chick chick chick noise while driving, only noticable with the window down, but it is prominent. The sound started after a brake job, so I started Investigating and found a small chip in the pad. Did I find the culprit? Everything else seems fine CV, wheel bearing etc.
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I did use final inspection as the lube. This car sat in the California smog and sun for 16 years and it did a phenomenal job.Did you use the meguiars final inspection as the clay lube? Does it work better than the usual quick detailer that comes in the clay box? I'm thinking a clay session is around the corner for meSent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
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ArchoilWhich products have you used from Archoil?In my other vehicles including the legacy I use :
Ar6200 fuel additive every fill up
Ar9100 friction modifier every oil change
Ar6400-g every 15k or so.
I have also use thier diesel products on my 7.3. it was unable to start below 10° and after religious use, it became the most loyal horse in the stable. Not to mention using the fuel additive in EVERYTHING gasoline like my generator, lawnmower, atv etc. After purchasing the Subaru last month I knew I would use archoil in it as well.ive put 3k on it already and as expected, the results have been great. Unfortunately I don't have any true scientific data to prove any of this, but after consistent use , I'm a believer .
I will have Blackstone oil analysis results before/after use in the next 6k miles for some real data.
Being new to the forum, I thought I would possibly bring a new product to the community to extend the longevity of these awesome cars.
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Man you're telling me! I did finally get my weather techs in though [emoji23]Nice work. Looks shiny. Now change or repaint the battery holding clampSent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
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Did a clay bar treatment today, with disgusting results. Followed that up with 2 stages of polishing and 3 coats of Maguires ceramic wax. I also found myself under the hood getting the engine bay tidy. Finished my day with some new brembo pads and rotors.
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Differential fluid
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted
Went for a test drive through the mountains to see if the fluids made a difference. Shifting is much much smoother, I'm actually super surprised.
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