captainmorgan

This is the rear seat I'm getting ride of. Its from an 05 2.5i Limited Sedan

 

There were things setting on top of them so the leather has taken a set. A little heat on the dents and they'll pop out

I have a black leather rear seat from a 2005 sedan, that I though I could make work in the wagon, but sadly does not, so if anyone out there wants it, I'd trade for black leather wagon!

I think Jeremy from Fred Bean Parts needs to chime in on this. I'm EXTREMELY interested right now! I'm actually in the process of changing from SuperPro's to stock because the SuperPros all worked them selves out.

So lets say I were to go the route of an 05 STi 6spd for my 05 Outback XT.

The outbacks have an R180 rear diff with a 4.444 final drive gear ratio.

Would this be compatible? There is an 05 STi at a salvage yard not too far from me that is nearly complete available for partout.

Are you from the future? Maybe when everybody is a genius?

Whats the range and resolution on it?

Do the motor mounts, tranny mount, and pitch stop. By themselves they dont help that much, but all together they make noticble difference in keeping the engine in the car! All the power that is being used to lift the engine up, is now channeled into the driveline.

 

The pitch stop is definately the one that will make the most noise. People ask me if I have some sort of speaker making that noise when I start the car!

There are two threaded studs on the mounts. You need two nuts (not included, at least with my set) to attach them to the mounting plates.

yup. Group N homologated mounts for severe duty applications. I got mine through King of Parts.

subaru

And here's how you do it:

 

1. First, remove your down pipe.

 

2. Disconnect the pitch stop from the engine. If you can do this with out removing your intercooler great, I had to take mine off.

 

3. Take your exhaust manifold off. I would recommend taking the uppipe off at the same time for more clearance, but I don't know if it is necessary, I took mine off anyways.

 

4. Remove the two nuts that hold the stock engine mounts to the subframe.

 

5. Get yourself a jack and a piece of scrap wood, and place it under the tranny between the braces. You need to place here because you're going to be jamming you face in the engine area.

 

6. Jack it up high enough that the studs on the mounts clear. Be careful here. I did this on ramps which probably wasn't real safe. It unloads the weight of the engine from the suspension so it rises for a while before the engine lifts.

 

7. Undo the front bolts that hold the mount to the engine.

 

8. Undo the rear bolts. This is where most of the sti guys would just reach around the back of the subframe and get their tools in. But the subframe on the legacy is shaped differently, so you have to go in from the front. So make sure you have the engine jacked up enough to get you ham fist in there.

 

9. Wiggle the old mounts out.

 

10. Install the new mounts (hopefully you assembled them ahead of time). They are labeled and only fit one way. Make sure the stud on the bottom lines up with the slot in the subframe.

 

11. Reverse order of these steps. (tighten bolts to whatever you can, you're not going to get a torque wrench in there.)

 

here are some less than helpful pictures.

muwhahahahah.

 

Just completed installing these. It was much easier than I originally thought.

 

Everybody should drop what they are doing right now, get a set of the group N engine mounts and install them. They add almost no NVH (at least compared to what the pitch stop adds), and gives the engine so much more response.

Only way I can see getting it done is by actually lifting the engine to get at the back bolts that hold it in. Looks like the Impreza chassis has the engine cradle with a lip that folds down away from the engine, whereas the Legacy's folds up and blocks access to the bolts. It might be able to actually drop the lower part of the cradle itself, with the engine suspended, but then you're really just doing an extra step.

 

My set of engine mounts came with the plate, though I'm not 100% sure if this is the same one you're talking about.

 

 

http://www.thekingofparts.com/catalog/10-2-engine-motor-mounts.jpg

Has anyone replaced their engine mounts with STI Group N hardened ones? I have a set and I'm in the process of replacing the tranny mount at the same time, but the mounts look different, and the engine cradle is in the way to get at the back bolt.

 

Just looking for anyone with any experience doing this and their comments.

Garnet red LGT wagon heading south on 290/355 about 3pm Sunday.

Its amazing how much easier the WRX was to change the plugs on than the legacy. The engine sits so slow next to the wheel wells.

 

I actually find it easier to use a spring back universal joint on a 3/4" socket. This should fit over the end of all 5/8" plug sockets. It just makes it easier to get on and off in the tight quarters. Also, remove the little rubber plug holder that sits inside the plug socket. It took me a half hour to get the socket off the plug because of this.

I get spotted by all the baby boomer women driving their LL Bean editions around all the time. Oh and ricers, seem to attract them too.

 

Its not like I'm hard to spot, probably the loudest, lowest OBXT in town.

Don't feel bad, I've never been spotted either.

Also should mention, I lose my presets everynow and then. I'm thiking its when I turn the radio off before I turn the car off, but it also might be when I kill power while playing the silent CD.

I just got mine and installed it in about 30 min last night. Its great, except for the low volume level.

 

I see the link for the mini amp there and that looks very promising, I'll have to try it out. It wold be nice to offer this as an option on package deal.

 

Here's another one a little cheaper too.

 

http://www.autotoys.com/x/cust/product.php?productid=1074

http://www.autotoys.com/x/cust/product.php?productid=4930

 

So if anyone wants a GLI from the pro-setup, I have one available!

I just ran those numbers through the spread sheet and sort of made an educated guess at the effective diameter (not really sure how its calculated but based it on the change in the other diameters), and came up with a bias shift of 4% for an LGT and 10% for an OBXT to the rear for a Rotora kit with the same style pads as stock.

eh, I was going to post a small rant here instead of in the circus ring of the other thread, but now I just don't care.

A little diggin on Nasioc.com turns up that for the XT front (WRX), the rotors are 294mm diameter and the piston size is 42.8mm. The rear should probably be very similar but with a different pad, to the WRX so I'm going to go with 266mm rotor and 38.1mm piston.

 

I'll have to wait until the weekend when I have time to pull the rears off the XT and give a good measure, though I'm sure that they'll be the very similar to the wrx to maintain bias.

 

Also, this might help a bit too.

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

I just got my Rotora 4pot/2pot setup last night. I can measure the calipers tonight if you like.

Some info from an OBXT would be helpful to some as well! Its probably pretty easy to dig up the fronts (wrx), but the info on the rears is pretty limited