elomo64

Nevermind!

Loaded a base map, removed AF3 checks and no more CELs. Seems like the e-tune isn't setup correctly, though the rich conditions never showed up before I removed the AF3 checks....?

I'm still also unsure why I can't see those fields on Romraider.

After so many headaches trying to fix my damn O2 sensor, I've gone the route of just getting rid of it.

I've been able to remove the CELs, and when loading the image on ECUFlash, I see the AF3 Correction/Target fields. I select them and they're already zeroe'd out? I've applied the map to my car, and via logging, I see that AF3 is at 0 all the time.

But I still got a "Rich conditions" code after a few minutes.

When I load the rom on Romraider, I don't see the AF3 values, even after adding them to the definitions. I'm currently stumped as to what's happening here.

Edit: the 16-bit value is at -50%. Is this the actual value I should be looking at?

These are the tables I added to my definitions file:

<table name="AF 3 Correction Limits" category="Experimental" address="2DF2C" type="2D" level="1" scaling="A/FLearning#1Limits(%)">
<table name="X" type="Static X Axis" elements="2">
<data>High</data>
<data>Low</data>
</table>
</table>
<table name="AF 3 Learning Limits" category="Experimental" address="2C91C" type="2D" level="1" scaling="A/FLearning#1Limits(%)">
<table name="X" type="Static X Axis" elements="2">
<data>High</data>
<data>Low</data>
</table>
</table>

I've added new 4-gauge cables to both the alternator and to the manifold, ran out of daylight to finish the rest and test the o2 sensor, but fingers definitely crossed!

That's exactly what I needed! It's there, definitely hidden behind too many cables on my side. Thank you!

Hmmm yeah I don't see it. Here's a quick video, I guess it's simply not there, right?
 

I'm dealing with a P0037 code that won't go away, and I'm at the stage where the ECM is reporting less than 1V on the heater element signal.

I had a shop take the engine out about a year ago and since then the code will not go away. They blame it on the harness wiring being melted by the exhaust, but that doesn't make sense, since I've checked all voltages/resistances from the harness and they're all good.

What I believe the issue might be is that the car is likely not properly grounded, and so far the only ground cable I've yet to find is this one. The service manual has pictures with a metal manifold (like the on in the STI) so the picture is no good for me.

Searching the forums, I found this quote:
 

Quote

...on the back of the intake manifold by the brake booster there are two bolts on a metal bar above the valve cover.

But I can't seem to find this. I want to be sure I'm looking at the correct location and/or part, before I assume that the shop simply didn't install it.

Would anyone be able to show me a picture of this connection? I've scoured Google image search and Youtube videos but I haven't been able to see it.

Yup, it's a brand new Denso, tests correctly for about 8 ohms of resistance (should be less than 30) at the heater circuit.

Here's the particular bit regarding the heater signal from the ECM, and so far it's the only element of all the checklist that fails to pass, so I still get the P0037.

I've read hundreds of posts regarding this, and some guy apparently had the P0037 code go away when he changed a faulty injector, though he never replied back when asked if the voltage reading ever went back up.

My car currently gets some misfires on cyl#1 at around 5K rpm, so I just might have an issue there. What's really annoying about all this is that the code showed up after I took my car for an engine rebuild, but the shop refuses to take ownership of the issue, claiming it was the cables fraying from exhaust heat and not them.

I'm also thinking that there might be an incorrectly grounded cable, which is causing the ECU to not give out the full 1V, especially since I found a disconnected ground when they delivered the car initially.

So fed up with that shitty shop.

Well I got it working, but the most frustrating thing is that it did not fix the issue I'm dealing with.

I've got a P0037 code, and I'm following the procedure in EN(H4SO)(diag)-83, which states that if pin no.2 of the B135 connector is less than 1V (Mine's reading at 0.06V), that I should replace the ECM.

Does this mean that this replacement ECM I got, is also a dud? I would like to imagine that whatever should be supplying the 1V might be shot and it should be something reparaible on the ECM board? I honestly thought I'd be done with this almost year-long ordeal.

I uh... might have forgotten to use Hexdump to read the files...

Progress, everything reads at ffff

Yeah, if I do the 180º I instead get this:

2024-04-01 19:27:45,855 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_open and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,858 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_reset and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,858 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_read_data_set_chunksize and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,858 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_write_data_set_chunksize and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,862 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_purge_buffers and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,865 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_set_bitmode and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:27:45,867 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_set_bitmode and got response 0.
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "eeprom-read.py", line 17, in <module>
    ft232h = FT232H.FT232H()
  File "C:\Python27_x64\Adafruit_GPIO\FT232H.py", line 165, in __init__
    self._mpsse_sync()
  File "C:\Python27_x64\Adafruit_GPIO\FT232H.py", line 252, in _mpsse_sync
    data = self._poll_read(2)
  File "C:\Python27_x64\Adafruit_GPIO\FT232H.py", line 232, in _poll_read
    raise RuntimeError('Timeout while polling ftdi_read_data for {0} bytes!'.format(expected))
RuntimeError: Timeout while polling ftdi_read_data for 2 bytes!

This seems like it means the pins are not in the correct position I assume?

BTW you helping me with this is something I appreciate immensely, seriously thank you!

Yeah I suspect it might be the clamp, I've tried several times and it seems to be seated correctly, but I still get the ÿ's.

I'm so close... I think I might be missing to uncoat the threads on the chip on the ECM! Will try that...

Nvm, finally got it working on windows! But the dump bin file is just "ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ"...

Is it possible I have the pin connectors wrong?

2024-04-01 19:28:04,744 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_open and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,746 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_reset and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,746 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_read_data_set_chunksize and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,747 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_write_data_set_chunksize and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,752 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_usb_purge_buffers and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,753 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_set_bitmode and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,756 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Called ftdi_set_bitmode and got response 0.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,788 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  Setting clockspeed with divisor value 66
2024-04-01 19:28:04,788 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  SPI write with command 11.
2024-04-01 19:28:04,789 [MainThread  ] [DEBUG]  SPI read with command 20.

Got my hands on the FT232H but getting the ftdi drivers to work has been so far impossible, I've tried both on my Windows and Mac machines. The Blinka drivers worked instantly, but the eeprom script would need to be rewritten to use those I guess.

Currently stuck at trying to compile the drivers, I just get:

clang: error: linker command failed with exit code 1 (use -v to see invocation)
make[2]: *** [python/_ftdi1.so] Error 1
make[1]: *** [python/CMakeFiles/_ftdi1.dir/all] Error 2
make: *** [all] Error 2

18 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Looks like the person two posts before you got it working with the CH341A, so it should be feasible.

Yup was reading their posts but since it was for a newer model, it looks to not be a 1:1 thing. I'm gonna have to do some reading because I have pretty much 0 experience with these programmable modules.

I'm having a lot of trouble sourcing an FT232H outside of the US, only could get a CH341A. This is for my '05 LGT. Is it possible to use pin connections that are analogue on this board, or do I absolutely need the FT232H?
 

Adding my 2 cents as well.

Bought used, had a straight pipe so it was loud as hell. Got a custom made 3" DP + Catback that goes out to two Borla mufflers. It also has a Vibrant Peformance Ultra Quiet resonator and well... It's now mostly quiet except for a very deep rumble at low RPMs, and a lot of droning at anything about 2.5K RPM.

I honestly would like it to be quieter, so I'm going to try to either add another muffler or get a different resonator. Or maybe get a full 2.25" or 2.5" system. :/

 

Update after about a year since I did the swap: I'm starting to get judder when turning left, and pretty audible whine. For a moment I thought I had a leak but I checked and my reservoir is right on the MAX marker.

I can only assume the pump is going out. Does the '15 STI pump fit on the LGT? P/N 34430FG040

Or should I look into a rebuild?

I see. I currently have an issue that the left turn signal turns on solid   when I turn the headlights on, and blinks fast while they are on.

If the headlights are off, it works normally. I suspect a grounding issue tbh, but I'm wondering if the DRL could have anything to do.

Hey all!

Been doing some electrical work on my car, trying to fix the absolute mess the previous owner did, and I came upon this unplugged harness:

From what I can see in the service manual, this is connector B96 - Daytime Running Light Module.

Just to be 100% correct, can anyone confirm?

There's also this cut wire under the steering column:

I can't seem to find what connector this is on the service manual. Any idea?

Car is a 2005 LGT MT.

On 7/29/2022 at 11:26 PM, java said:

Got in on the initial batch at $850 shipped. It isn't true UEL though but I'm not mad about it since I was going to go EL anyway. GS was calling it a "hybrid" in the Facebook group, but yea it's more on the EL side.

 

How was the install? GS's site says "unconfirmed fit" for the LGT, but I assume nothing needed to be actually modified?

Thanks, appreciate it!

Thanks! I meant the box measurements and not the intercooler itself, as I'm trying to see if a buddy can bring it over from the US.

Weird question but, could you tell me how big the AVO TMIC box is? HxWxL?

Finally did the plunge! Was very lucky and found a new STI '15 rack for $450 here in Mexico, where the used ones would not go any lower than $600.

Installed with no issues, I did have to slightly file the engine cradle opening as it's my 3rd time doing this and it's always a pain trying to get the pump through that small opening.

Only thing I'm experiencing is the steering wheel will shudder if I turn too quickly, but I believe this might be the belt slipping (some ATF fell on it which I did clean but maybe not enough) and not the pump not keeping up. I'll probably get a new PS pump in a few months anyways.

Driving difference is night and day, even though I didn't get the STI u-joint, the wheel feels SOLID, so the STI joint might be entirely a placebo effect.

For rack I meant I'd swap to an STI steering rack if I wanted more of a racecar feel, but I drive my car on the freeway and don't need the steering to be razor sharp off-center. Or maybe that's what you were talking about.

 

Sounds like you've made up your mind. Good luck. Don't forget you'll need to pay for an alignment.

Took the car for alignment... and the rebuilt (Cardone) rack has slack on it. Yaaay. I guess I will go for the STI rack after all.