jasqi

4 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

I would guess they are Zero-2 because of the 5 way adjustable knob on top.

The paint mark says BE5, isn't that the third gen Legacy?  Should be BL5/BP5/BP9 for the fourth gen legacy.

By that PDF, it should be 659 or 680 for the fourth gen Legacy sedan or wagon respectively.

Am I missing something here?

Is that why you mention the top hats need to be swapped out?

Your probably right, I thought it was due to them being from Japan, I personally matched them up to my car and the only thing that seemingly didn’t match was the top hats.

Nevermind I believe I matched the part number to a Cusco site, it doesn’t match perfectly, but it seems it’s either the Zero 1 or Zero 2 model.

https://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Coilover kit-CUSCO_subaru.pdf

I couldn’t figure out much about them, the writing I can see is in all japanese. Hopefully someone else has some better luck.

I’ll check them out when I get home, I bought them quite awhile ago so I don’t remember anything specific. I’ll see if they have any identifying information on them. I’ll also grab a photo of the rears and post it here.

21 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

If the Killer B pick up falls through, I'll hop in line for "Next Recipient"

Pickup is sold.

11 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

If the Killer B pick up falls through, I'll hop in line for "Next Recipient"

Sounds good man!

I may have a deal for the TGVs, but shipping would probably be pretty spendy for the rest especially the turbo. I think it’ll probably be like $50-$80 for shipping but I can get you an accurate quote tomorrow. 

BUMP, NEW ITEMS/PRICE DROPS

Bump.

Here’s the pedals

Bump

On 8/3/2022 at 6:27 PM, boostedgrocerygetter said:

Do you know if those TGVs are version 1 or 2?

I have no clue, if you have any identifying features that I point out let me know!

On 7/31/2022 at 8:13 AM, shralp said:

Spec B pedals different than the GT? 

They’re silver with black rubber “grips”.

MORE MAJOR PRICE DROPS, MAKE AN OFFER ON ANYTHING!

MAJOR PRICE DROPS PLEASE BUY SO I CAN SELL THIS CAR, MAKE ME AN OFFER ON ANYTHING, WILL DISCOUNT BUYING MULTIPLE ITEMS

Wrecked my car awhile ago, planned to fix it and modify the car, but ran into headaches involving suspension components and body work so here we are. Willing to ship at buyers expense, most parts are unknown mileage, new, or otherwise stated.

Grimmspeed CAI (1k miles) - $200 SOLD

38mm EWG Pipe - $150 SOLD

IAG Top Feed TGV Deletes (NEW) - $250 $150 SOLD

900cc Injector Labs Top Feed (NEW) - $100 $60 SOLD

340lph AEM E-85 Fuel Pump (Good Condition) - $100 $60 SOLD

Prosport Halo Oil Temp Gauge (NEW) - $50 $30  $25

VF52 Turbo (Has wastegate crack and drilled out intercooler bolt, no shaft play) - $200 $100 SOLD

Cusco JDM Coilovers (Never installed, really good condition, imported used from Japan, needs USDM Tophats) - $1000 $700

JDM V-Type Grille (Some type of blue, has wet sanding marks, needs buffed) - $200 $150  SOLD

NEW ITEMS:

Used Killer B Oil Pickup (Still in great condition) - $50 SOLD

STi Blue E-Brake Boot (NEW) - $20 $15

Grimmspeed Turbo Gaskets (NEW Downpipe/Uppipe) - $20 $15

Grimmspeed EWG Bracket (NEW) - $15 SOLD

Black Fog Deletes (Used, have some scratches) - $25 $20

Carbon Fiber Roof Spoiler (Used, some small scratches, will include new 3M Tape for Application) - $200 $150

Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings (NEW) - $40 $30

Stock Foglights (Fogged a little, ok condition) - $30 $20

Full Roll of Madeira Red Teckwrap (Brand new, only opened) - $600 $450

Spec B Door Panels (Blue Suede, good condition) - $300

Grimmspeed Wrinkled Red Weighted Shift Knob (Still very good condition, comes with boot retainer as well) - $30

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had a weird grinding noise when I would decel, happened to be my exhaust was rubbing against the driveline so I might check there.

Alright those are all fair points. I snagged it off some dude building a drag wrx, he said it only had around 30k miles on it before it was pulled. Hell I didn’t care how many miles it had, it’d even make a good wall piece for $100 lol. I’ll look into rebuild, powder coat, and port/polish. Thanks everyone!

Bought this vf52 for like $100, seller said no shaft play and he just wanted to get rid of it, there’s no in/out play but a very small amount of side to side. I’m thinking this is just because the turbo is dry, but wanted to get some more opinions. There’s no signs of the turbine hitting the wall either. It’d be great if somebody with some insight can tell me whether or not this is fine to throw into my new build or if it’ll be a rebuild project, also whether or not I can feed oil into it to test shaft play with oil in her. Did some research beforehand and found some very mixed opinions on this specific topic.

 

I need some parts to finish some projects I got going on, the pick a part in Salem left me hanging so I’m looking for somebody with a full fledged parts car that may have what I’m looking for. Paint quality or color does not matter as long as the panel is mostly dent free or small imperfections are okay.

Driver Fender (05-07)

Rear Passenger Door (05-09)

Rear Bumper (05-07)

Passenger Limited Mirror (05-07)

Black Center Console (05-07)

Black Seatbelts (05-09)

Top Feed Rails, Lines, FPR (08-09)

 

Thanks everyone!

I’m almost completely ruling out boost leak as the intercooler one I fixed forever ago ran fine. The car also seems to run normal when it warms up outside and the only times it appeared was a cold foggy day, and a cold day today in which it snowed. Also I have the fender liners and bumper and what not, I’ve just had them off for a minute to sort out some body work, I plan on keeping the CAI, I figure I’ll just give the filter and MAF a good clean and reinstall the fender liners and what not. Also boost leak wise, I’ve inspected the intercooler, all BPV lines, throttle body hose, turbo to intercooler connection, T connector, almost every single one and all look good. I’m also still pulling a good vaccum at idle, unlike when my intercooler blew out.

Could not find any vaccum leaks, it warmed up the past 2 days and it fixed itself. This morning it snowed and on my 2nd drive today it started doing the same symptoms. No boost, maxed out MAF at slight throttle, and cut off. Also an especially rough idle. Took some datalogs I might be able to share. I’m thinking dirty MAF as my CAI reaches down below the fender, and I have no bumper or fender liners on right now, and we’ve had some nasty road grime lately. Let me know what y’all think. If not MAF maybe plugs or coils?

 

 

Just rechecked codes and I got a P0171 (System Too Lean “Extreme Fuel Trims”) so I’m thinking MAF.

 

 

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Could not find any vaccum leaks, it warmed up the past 2 days and it fixed itself. This morning it snowed and on my 2nd drive today it started doing the same symptoms. No boost, maxed out MAF at slight throttle, and cut off. Also an especially rough idle. Took some datalogs I might be able to share. I’m thinking dirty MAF as my CAI reaches down below the fender, and I have no bumper or fender liners on right now, and we’ve had some nasty road grime lately. Let me know what y’all think. If not MAF maybe plugs or coils?

No I installed it probably a month or two ago, all was well after it was installed. Checked the end tanks today and everything looks good, looked over the vaccum lines and everything looks connected. Also yeah no other codes and I reset the ecu today and there isn’t a check engine light at all anymore, but it still continues to do this. I notice every drive it happens the MAF will cap out at 300 out of nowhere.

I can definitely check, but I had a fully blown intercooler and it was bad enough to stall the car out sometimes. Even when I hit boost with that it wouldn’t full on stop out of nowhere. With this the car starts up fine and drives mostly fine up until I give it a little more throttle. When I watched my MAF reading when it’d almost enter positive boost the MAF reading would jump to a bunch of different spots and hit 300 g/s out of nowhere.

Update: Drove it this morning and didn’t even enter boost and it did it once or twice, except a lot less harsh. Noticed my MAF reading hit 300g/s and that’s without even entering boost. Bad or dirty MAF?

 

 

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I’m curious why you haven’t fixed the EGT code and O2 sensor code? Do they not add to the problem?

 

 

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No it’s just side effects of having a catless downpipe and constant highway driving, I’ve got the resistors to do it just gotta find the day. It doesn’t send it into limp mode or anything like that though, or affect anything for that matter actually.