GeorgeBL5

Oh Boy Just not sure why people just do not go with new shortblock and keep it the same. Yes it cost more. So what.

I’ll give you 4 good reasons why I didn’t opt for another ej255…

1)A friend of mine rebuilt his motor using a brand new ej255 shortblock. About 3k miles later he had a cylinder 4 misfire and sold the car for half it was worth.

2) The ej20x is a much better motor than the one offered in the states

3) You’re getting a much better motor at half the cost of a new shortblock and rebuild

4) There’s something to be said about being original/different. That’s why I own a legacy gt instead of a wrx. There’s very few people in my area that can say that they’ve jdm swapped their subaru; let alone a legacy.

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What did your do with the exhaust AVCS? (EJ20X/Y)

I've done 2 of these swaps, and just left it as is, disconnected.

I used USDM intake manifold on both. One I used the VF37 twin scroll turbo with HKS downpipe.

The other USDM VF40 turbo.

 

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I left mine disconnected as well. Although when you leave the exhaust avcs unplugged it will leak oil through there which I totally disregarded at first. Ended it up plugging them and it ran fine up until it’s eventual demise. I ran the factory vf38 twin scroll (which is awesome) with a custom fabbed invidia catless downpipe. The next ej20 I get will hopefully have the bigger td04hla-19t or the vf44 and see how big a difference those units make. Vf38 is only good for around 18psi, I made around 260whp @ 16.5 psi revving out to 7200rpm.

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@GeorgeBL5

 

So you did try turning the engine by hand in reverse?

If timing belt went, and bent valves, the piston could be up against valves. If you turn in reverse, it will turn until it hits valves again. This would eliminate seized crank.

 

If it won't turn either way, I'd suspect seized rod bearing.

 

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Yes I tried both ways and it would not budge. Based on what you said and the driving conditions it’s likely that it could be a rod bearing. I’m gonna opt for another Ej20x/y to swap in and tear into the blown one just to see what happened. I’ll update this thread on whatever comes up.

If anyone’s got questions about these ej20’s I’ve seen the swap all the way through. Learned a lot along the way beyond what the forums tell us… Peace

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Also the motor was swapped with an Ej20x not an Ej255

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It sounds a lot like a seized engine. Put a socket on the main pulley and see if you can turn the engine over. Try clockwise and if it doesn't turn, try counterclockwise

 

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See that was my biggest fear all along. I ended up trying to crank it by hand last night and it didn’t budge. When the starter engages all you hear is a click and while you can feel the motor trying to spin up it simply doesn’t. My neighbor who’s a fellow Subaru enthusiast thinks it could be something torque converter/transmission related. Not sure if a torque converter issue would prevent the flywheel from spinning or not, guess I won’t find out until I detach the motor from the trans and try cranking it again. That is if it’s worth my while of course. Could the motor simply seize up like that while driving? What can happen internally that would cause the motor to seize up if that is the case? Appreciate the help

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Valve body for the trans is toast. That turbine speed sensor is part of the valve body. If you’re handy with soldering and wiring, and don’t mind taking the valve body apart, it can be repaired. There’s some guides on here

Thanks for the reply, will the valve body prevent the motor from cranking though? That would make sense if it’s not turning over for security reasons.

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I should also add that the CEL did not flash when this all happened. Although upon reading codes with my AP I pulled a p0715 (torque converter turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction) and p0725(engine speed input circuit malfunction). Not sure if this is security related or if the motor shutting off suddenly just made these codes appear.

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Hey all, as you can tell by the title my car won’t start. This all started when I was under WOT in 3rd gear, everything felt fine. Then I slowed down to speed limit: felt a jolt/buckle but kept driving, attempted to speed up a little bit, buckled again. Then about 5 seconds later the motor shuts of and goes basically into accessory mode. Tried jumping it to get home but that didn’t work. Ended up towing it back. I swapped out the alternator and that didn’t do it, battery has power as well. I went ahead and changed the starter and it still won’t crank. I’m started to lean more toward the fuel pump but still unsure. Definitely need some input on this… Thanks

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Hey guys, I recently just got my ej20x swapped legacy back on the road. She was street tuned using whatever software from the tuner’s laptop rather than my AP v3. To make a long story short he had to unmarry it before he could begin tuning and now with the tune directly loaded into the ecu I can’t use my accessport. Is there a way I can take a snapshot of my ecu/current tune and upload that to my accessport and perhaps that way I can use it again? Thanks

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