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Shoeiz22

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Posts posted by Shoeiz22

  1. TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE

    Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both:

     

    MODS

    Intake: None

    Exhaust: Catted nvidia DP, Q300 CB

    Fuel: 91/93

    Turbo: Stock Vf40

    Engine Management: Cobb AP V3

    Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): Rev2 of torqued performance tune

     

    MAINTENANCE

    Sensors changed: none currently

    Plugs changed: 20 miles ago

    Coil Packs changed: 20 miles ago

     

    OTHER SYMPTOMS

    Check Engine Light: None

    Etc: -12 feedback knock around 2300-2500 rpm. Car is pulling timing due to "knock" short block compression and leakdown are fine. No rod bearing material in oil filter.

     

    RESULTS

    What has and hasn't worked for you: Tried changing from OTS tune to E tune and changing spark plugs and coil packs.

    If something worked, how long has it been working for: Nothing currently.

  2. How do your long term fuel trims look like?

     

     

     

    Have you been able to really narrow it down to exactly which conditions it knocks? What is the approximate load range (in g/rev) for example? If the Af correction is moving around, this means that you are still in a closed loop situation then. Basically, you should log to figure out under which conditions you are knocking. In my opinion, if knock is real, then it is either running too lean or there is just too much timing in that load/rpm area of the timing table.

     

     

    I am currently suffering from some knock at fairly low load (~0.85 g/rev) in that rpm range you are mentioning. Although in my case, it is in open loop (no fuel correction). I know I am meeting the target AFR. So, I have been reducing timing in that area where it keeps knocking. But it is still showing knock. Although, when it pulls it, I do not feel a loss of power. So maybe I am passed MBT and need to keep pulling timing. Or, it is plain false knock and just noise. The ECU rarely 'learns' it anyway. So I am guessing the amplitude of the knock signal may be fairly weak. :iam:

     

    I have narrowed it down to that scenario in my post below but I have attached some logs to help make it a bit more clear on where it is occurring.

  3. xt2005, my long term fuel trims seem to be fine but I do get a lot of AF correction in this range, I am thinking maybe it is a fuel injector related maybe it is dying and causing just the right frequency to make it go off? Who knows. I made another post with the logs if you want to look at them there. It is mostly between 2000 and 2600 rpm with about 30-40% throttle in 3rd and 4th gear cruising or taking off.
  4. Hello all, I got my car back from the shop after trying to diagnose some false knock and feedback knock issues. I was originally on a cobb stage 2 OTS tune but have recently put an e tune on the car. It runs much better now but I am still getting -12 feedback knock between 2000 and 3000 rpm. I have attached a log of a 3rd gear WOT pull where this happened. Outside of this range the car is awesome but its this range that is being a pain.

     

    The shop said that it could be the car picking up valvetrain noise as "knock" thus causing the car to pull timing in that region. Is there anyway to make the the knock sensor less sensitive in that specific region? Any advice is welcome as I am new to this whole thing. Thank you!

    datalog2.csv

    datalog3.csv

    datalog4.csv

    datalog5.csv

    datalog1.csv

  5. Hello all this is my first post within this forum so hopefully I do this correctly. I am currently having this issue where between 2000 and 3000 rpm I will see around -12 sometimes less of feedback knock on my accessport V3. Within this range also, my AF correction is all over the place like -+25 or so. Outside of this rpm range, the car runs fine 0 knock or anything. I have taken it to a shop and had the coils and plugs done with OEM subaru coils and NGK plugs.

     

    The shop believes it might be some noise coming from the drivers side valve train causing this issue but my question is why when it is cold does the noise not exhibit itself but when its warm it does make this ticking noise? I realize subarus make some noise which is confusing me as to why the car thinks its knock.

     

    Another theory I have is that an injector is going bad and causing this AF correction non sense and "knock". The car passed the compression test and there is no rod bearing material in the pan or the oil. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Thank you for the help!

    datalog5.csv

    datalog4.csv

    datalog3.csv

    datalog2.csv

    datalog1.csv

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