I use a Motive power bleeder on mine and follow the manual for the sequencing. Pedal is always firm with nearly no (<3/8") of yield before it gets very firm and stays that way through the stroke. Modulation is linear and braking is very right now. Not E26 M5 right now, but close IME.
Centric Premium rotors, with bedded-in Hawk HPS performance pads, on stock calipers with Stop Tech SS Lines are at all four corners. The GS MC brace is installed and I've never felt the need to upgrade to anything beyond this stage.
I've not driven an OB or OBXT so can't comment on the pedal feel, nor the grip of the brakes, but it does sound like the OEM bits leave the driver wanting more of both.
I just did this mod yesterday on my LGT using a used SJ labeled booster and a new STI BMC and my experience is identical to this. Very short distance to when pedal starts to feel stiff and maybe only another 1" of travel before it's completely solid. I haven't done any other brake upgrades, so stock calipers, regular pads, regular lines, no bracing. The pedal is night and day different now, this was a great upgrade. Thanks to the forum for providing such clear instructions!
STI Master Cyl. and Brake Booster SWAP SUMMARY for LGT
in Walkthroughs :: Performance Modifications
Posted
I just did this mod yesterday on my LGT using a used SJ labeled booster and a new STI BMC and my experience is identical to this. Very short distance to when pedal starts to feel stiff and maybe only another 1" of travel before it's completely solid. I haven't done any other brake upgrades, so stock calipers, regular pads, regular lines, no bracing. The pedal is night and day different now, this was a great upgrade. Thanks to the forum for providing such clear instructions!