phillbert

Subaru's have excellent residual values. Especially the STI and WRX models. Ive heard of people getting money back to return their lease early as the car is cash positive on the lease. It doesn't negate the fact that you are just renting a new car, but it can definitely make the total cost of ownership more manageable.

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Awesome post. So basically to make it work, you need to swap out the non homelink harness with the homelink harness. I guess whoever is looking in eBay, they should buy a mirror that is complete with the harness and avoid any issues.

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Looking at bringing my 10 LGT back to stock.

Have the following for sale:

1) DAMD Grey Stitching D Steering Wheel. Fits Legacy and Outback models 2010-2011. In great condition. SOLD

2) Cobb Subaru Accessport V3 (AP3-SUB-003) - Unmarried. Used on my 10 LGT. The cable connecting to the access port has the tabs broken off (very common problem). Still works fine and secures fine. When removing access port cable from unit, you have to use a pointed tip to eject. Clear protective screen cover still on Accessport. SOLD

3) Rally Armor mud flap for Legacy 2010-2014. Complete with all mounting hardware. SOLD

4) PLX multi gauge with boost sensor housed in a custom gauge pod that fits in the driver side windshield vent. $150 shipped works perfectly. The screen is just distorted due to the camera frame rate.

5) primitive racing rear differential protector that fits lgt and many other models.$100

6) Invidia Q300 exhaust. This will be for local pickup only. I will also need to exchange with your stock exhaust as I don't have mine. $600?

They should pop out of the socket. You have to pry up on the spring clip. Maybe this video will help you.

I've been looking for at least one YouTube on how to change the plugs on a 2010 Legacy, bot have yet to see anything. There are lots of vids on Ourbacks, but none for the 2010 Legacy. I went out to the garage on kind of get my bearings of where things are and what may need to be moved. The plugs seem to shrouded, on both sides by some kind of bracket that seems to support other external engine components.

Gotta pay for those complimentary inspections somehow

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With my past Subaru, it turned out the issue was the timing belt tensioner failing. It makes a know almost identical to rod knock at higher rpms. Take a look at this and see if its similar. Hoping this is the issue.

Make sure you look at other trucks as well. Those 10 speeds seem to have more issues popping up as time goes on...

I'm gonna try my hand at leasing one this time around. If anything happens, it will be within the warranty period. If it turns out that it is problematic, I'll dump it back to the dealership once my term ends. If it ends up being worthwhile to keep, I may buy it out. I understand I will be paying a bit more in the end, but I like that it gives me the flexibility. I'll definitely shop around and see the competitors.

I'm looking at getting a new F150. After sitting in one, I'm pretty much sold. I've never owned a truck before, but I can finally see why it's the top selling vehicle.

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Sounds like you are going to have to trouble shoot this methodically. If I were you, I start by physically examining the bulbs first. Ive had bulbs fail early on. I attribute this to me contaminating the bulb with my oily hands during installation. If bulbs check out, you probably need to see if there is a 12v source going to the bulbs. If you aren't getting any power, then keep looking. See if any wires are damaged.

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Thank you very much for the pics and advice. I'll try and find time this weekend to tackle this.

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Thanks. I will try cleaning and lubricating it first. And yes, I do live in an area that uses salt like no tomorrow. @ NVAKeith, if you can take pictures that would be awesome.

Thanks

Recently, I've been dealing with the issue of the shifter not returning to a neutral position when you are shifting gears.

For instance, when I am in 5th gear and want to either downshift or put it in neutral, the shifter doesn't spring back to the neutral position. Instead, it kinda stays in the 5th gear area. It only happens on the right side gears of the shifter (gears 5&6). The left side (gears 1&2) springs back fine.

Does anybody know if there is a spring or something that is related to it that can be replaced? It otherwise shifts fine. Just makes downshifting kinda annoying.

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Thanks.

Mechanic swapped coil packs from cylinder 1 with cylinder 3 and went for a test drive. Sure enough, the same thing happened (check engine and the whole she bang). Ran a diagnostic scan and saw misfire cylinder 1 now. Hopefully this will fix my problem..

Hi Everyone, new user here but longtime Subaru owner.

Was wondering if anybody has dealt with this issue.

-Car idles fine and drives fine otherwise normally. There is an unrelated issue with the car when it sits for a period (overnight) and when you first start, it takes about 8-10 seconds to start. After that, it starts fine.

My main issue is that when I am on boost (i.e. over 4.5k rpm), the car will pretty much violently cut out and give me a bunch of error lights (check engine, traction control, brake error light, cruise control). It doesn't matter what gear I am in. As soon as I hit that range, it cuts out and codes come on. Running a scanner gives me the error code p0303.

I've checked the intercooler hoses and they seem tight. My best guess is the coil pack and/or spark plug and possibly injector. Are these a known common failure on our vehicles?

Any help is appreciated.