bradyhall

Thanks for all the advice. I will keep you posted on any progress. I'm hoping it is something simple.

We've Jiggled and tapped just about everything I can touch to see if anything works. I even tore into the dash to see if there was a loose connection by the ECU. The only code that will pop up if the car dies while idling or just getting going from a stop is the Information center will flash Run System Mode Check. However, once the car decides to start back up the message is gone with no history. Could the flash memory of the ECU be crapping out which would explain no codes and the intermittent issues??

Hey thanks for all of the ideas. I have had several shops look it over, even a specialized tuner shop. The difficulty is that the problem is intermittent, (although it has gotten much worse in the last few months), and it doesn't throw any codes, even for a special scan tool. So, none of the shops could diagnose anything... It does lose all power when it does it's thing, it looks like the dash is just wigging out but the engine actually cuts out. If you listen carefully you can hear the blowoff valve release boost when it clicks. The ABS light and traction control light come on when it does it, but then they go off after the engine shuts off and turns back on, but they don't always come on. As far as temperature, I know that there is a connection to the operating temperature of the engine and the issue. It will never do it if the engine is cold, it only does it when warmed up. The first time it happened was sitting in a drive thru idling for about 10 mins. This is why I believe is has to do with a Sensor/Relay because it seems to reset after some time. I'll check the Crank position sensor. I probably should have mentioned that my car is a 2007 SpecB with a Stage 2 Cobb Tune. Turbo back cat-less exhaust. Any ideas as to any other Relays/Sensors that could cause this condition? Has anyone ever seen a computer act like this?

Please watch the video I attached to see what is going on. I’ve been working for about 18 months to solve this electrical issue. The hard part of diagnosing it, is that it doesn’t ever throw any codes. When it dies while I’m going slow or just getting going from a stop the car will not start for some time. Power to all other part ms of car still works. When you turn the key to the start position after such an event nothing happens as in the situation of an extremely dead battery. When driving, as you can see in the video, it will die and then kick right back on but you can hear an audible clicking noise. The engine cuts out and if you are going above about 15 mph it will turn back on as if nothing has happened. I’m thinking that something is causing a relay to trip which is cutting power to the ECM…truly a weird situation. My instinct says faulty relay somehweee or sensor that trips relay. A bad ECM would not be intermittent like this would it? Any help would be appreciated. Brand new battery. Not a single diagnostic code. FullSizeRender.MOV FullSizeRender.MOV

The weird thing is that everything else functions on the car. The radio doesn't turn off, the gauges do the sweep thing when it is turned to on position, but it will not engage the starter for minute. It almost seems like some kind of "fail safe" mode is triggered that shuts the engine down. I don't know enough about the stage 2 tunes to know if there is such a feature. I would thing that a trouble code would pop up if that was the case???

I have a 2007 Spec B with a stage 2 tune from Cobb. I use it as my daily driver and have not had any issues up to this point. Today when I was driving, if I got into boost or even moderate acceleration (around 3K), the check engine and traction control light would flash and the car would either cut out or turn off completely. I plugged in the COBB tuner to see what diagnostic codes would come up and nothing....I waited a few minutes and car would start back up. It doesn't make any funny noises, have weird smells, it really performs normal...I can't figure out what would cause this kind of behavior. Any thoughts or anybody that has had similar experience? I should also add that when the car dies completely, it won't even turn over when you try to start it. It acts like a car with a dead battery would. That rules out something like a vacuum leak or something that could cause a car to stumble or stutter. It shuts down like the computer is completely dead.