nickm81

Nice write-up guys!

Question: I have a 2.5i 2010 Legacy, would the NGK SILFR6C11A's also be a good candidate for plugs, or should I go with the best NGKs listed on Rockauto (SIFR6A11) ?

She's a beaut, Clark.

Update -- I finally ended up swapping this part out, and it was indeed the "Latch And Actuator Door FLH. (Left, Front), Part num: 61032AJ01A". My driver's door locks and unlocks like a dream now, with the door switch and the remote.

Also -- just a helpful tip in case anyone else has to do this: before taking the old latch/actuator piece out, you'll want to remove this bolt, right here (see picture, I'm pointing to it).

This bolt secures the bottom left side of the window channel as the window would roll down, I highly recommend removing it temporarily to allow you to get some play in that channel piece. Otherwise, you would have to maneuver the entire latch/lock assembly around that channel, and trust me, it's nearly impossible. This will also likely turn a 2-hour job into a 45-minute one.

https://imgur.com/a/Vp2N4V4

Thanks for the advice. Mind if I ask what you mean when you say "power it directly"?

My troubleshooting experience with electronics is pretty limited, using a basic multimeter to measure voltage is about as complicated as I've gotten!

Thank you!

Hi all:

I have a great 2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, but one power lock (of course it's the driver's door) stopped working a little while ago. It locks/unlocks when I use key in the lock, or flip the inside lock manually, but it doesn't lock or unlock when I press the power lock button, or the buttons on my remote. All other doors lock and unlock normally.

I did a bit of research before I take the door apart, and it looks like the part I'm looking to replace is this one: "Latch And Actuator Door FLH. (Left, Front), Part num: 61032AJ01A". Or in other works, this part in the picture here (attached).

Does anyone have any experience with this, or have any suggestions?

Thank you!