Jags

Located in Spokane WA 

You pickup

have three doors left from a partout a while back and are just sitting collecting dust outside, doors panels are gone but still have window motors etc.

$50 for all three of them left me know if anybody is interested. 

Trunk and drivers door sold. 

Subwoofer sold, still have a bunch of parts, including interior trim such as the silver trim will be able to post later. 

I still have everything if anyone is interested, I will ship out any of the small parts at the buyers expense, I have doors trunks etc all 4 for $250 if anyone is interested.

On 5/3/2023 at 12:01 PM, biggreen96 said:

Hey Jags I'm down in Palouse, WA and I want that sub! Do you ever come down this way? 

If you are still interested in that subwoofer I will ship it out to you if you are interested. 

Got a spare set of wheels with tires that I have no use for as I'm selling my 09 Legacy, These wheels have plenty tread on them 9/32 to be exact, 1 tire has a slice in the sidewall so 1 new tire would be required some curb rash is present on these as well. 

Asking $350 local pickup in Spokane, tires have been sitting for a few months, out the sun so could look much better with a bit of cleaning date code is also in 2022. 

On 5/10/2023 at 3:09 PM, sludlow said:

Interested in the vents.

Pm me, If your still interested I'll be available on sunday, 

3 hours ago, biggreen96 said:

Hey Jags I'm down in Palouse, WA and I want that sub! Do you ever come down this way? 

Unfourtantly I don't see my self coming down there any time soon. Doubt  anyone will take it anytime soon so I probably will have it in the future if you ever do come down this way. 

Have a bunch of parts from a parts car that I purchased mostly for the engine and trann, and just have a bunch of parts that I'd like to get rid of that I do not need.  All parts are OEM local pickup perfered but will ship anything out at buyers expense. 

Wiper Motor Assembly - $40

Side Dash Vents - $20 for both left and right. 

Heated Seat Switch - $15

OEM Under seat Subwoofer - $30

OEM Rear Bumper ( Blue ) - $50 

Guage Cluster ( 193k miles ) - $20

PS Fluid Reservoir - $10

Horns - $10

4EAT Driveshaft - $60

Parts are just taking up space and will never have use for them, so I'd like get rid of them. 

Quote

How long do you plan on keeping the car/how much do you drive it/what's your repair budget?

Could be worth having a look at a wrecking yard for some OE CV's and trying them out... They are *really* expensive from the dealership.
Boot kits are cheap enough, tho not all are available from Subaru any longer, you might need to get some aftermarket stuff.

 

I''ve personally had good experience with rebuilt units from the aftermarket, and aftermarket "new" CVs as well, but that was being on a tight budget,
and being aware that I might get a little vibration if they aren't great. I haven't yet, but it definitely happens to people. You pays your money and you takes
your chances...

Gotcha, this is my daily at the moment. Just get me to work 10 miles in total commute for both ways and that's all I care right now. I got some used 06 Axles that have the U joints out of the cup and boots off so those might be a good canditate for a rebuild if i could find a kit.

I don't want to get rid of the car it's actually one of those I enjoy driving even with the N/A engine. But that is good to know. 

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

I know you said the CV axles ‘feel tight’, but your symptoms could definitely be one that is worn. It’s kinda hard to check them for play on the car, but there is probably a diagnostic procedure for them in the service manual. (See ‘vacation pix’ for a download) Also could be your differential, I think bad bearings in the front can cause those symptoms as well… but that might want some further investigation before you commit to that.

Wheel bearings were both replaced because I slid into a curb, so bearings are out of the picture and does look like cv axles are the only other answer. Not going to be fun doing them.

Thought I'd ask here first before committing to hurting my wallet again.

I'm assuming only get OEM axles? I've heard people say they had way worse vibrations etc from cheap aftermarket junk.

Hello all, 09 Legacy Special Edition right now I'm kind of lost with this car after so many issues. 

Got a at times really loud knock when turning the wheel and you can feel it trough the body and steering wheel when it does occur, got a vibration that occurs only at 60 - 80 mph ( comfirmed not a tire / wheel balance issue ). Hear as well a noise like something is rubbing against something when going over bumps as well. 

Replaced Struts thinking it was strut mounts as I've had strut mounts cause similiar noise esp rubbing noise on other vehicles. - that did not fix it but did make the ride nicer. Control arms are newish with the ball joint are about a year old now so not even expecting for those to be the reason of the noise when turning. ( used KYB excel struts as the vehicle had oem KYB struts on it ) 

No play in the wheels, none at all everything is tight just like how it should ( swaybar, tie rod etc ). 

Just lost where to go here as the noise sometimes feels like it comes from the right and left side, vibration in the left floor and steering wheel existed way before the noise started and never had been able to solve it, axles don't feel loose either. don't want to throw any more money away on parts that may not fix it. recently resealed the whole engine with head rebuilds so I don't want to throw the car away as the engine is perfectly sound with only 84k miles on it.

Thank you in advance for your help and when the chance arises I will try to record the noise. 

Bought a wrecked Legacy for some spare parts for mine and just got a few spare parts here that I am not going to use, as of now the taillights are and the radio with the climate controls are what I got pulled.

Located In WA Spokane and rather deal with local pick up versus shipping.

Tail Lights - $40 each good condition 

Radio with the duel climate controls $100.

20230205_132108.jpg.url

So I went ahead and replaced the Left wheel bearing with a Detroit Axle that went smoothly and my Wheel vibration is gone, bad part noise is still there so the right one is also bad.

Nice thing about the Detroit axle wheel hubs is that they were not so expensive and Cruise control does not have any issues unlike a lot of reports I have heard of cheap Chinese ones having Cruise issues. 

Probably will replace the second on in a few weeks to be honest as I don't have the money for a second one, but replacing both at the same time is probably a really good idea.

Hello all,

Got a 2009 Subaru Legacy with of course a front wheel bearing making noise at only 85k miles, I've always had a vibration in the left wheel I was never able to trace down and was not going to start throwing parts at it but It finally showed it's self.

I was just curious at this point if any damage can be done to any other components from driving on it for a few more hundred miles, around 100. I have no play in the wheel It's just noise I do have the bearing on order that was supposed to come in today and was going to replace it tomorrow but of course shipping delays. 

I just want to know about how long they will go before they seize I just need it to last me at least another 100 miles. 

On 11/13/2022 at 11:12 AM, yellowspirit said:

Don't delete - it may be useful for someone else who misses the EGR tube as well.

That is true I did not think of that, may my mistake be a learning for someone lol.

Also I accidentally put the coolant hose into the pcv hose, I was rushing to get it done and mixed them up. So don't do that either.

Mods please delete if you want to, but I found out I missed the EGR tube don't know how I missed it. 

Hello all,

I just installed the engine with freshly rebuilt heads but it's sounding like a tractor. 

 Now I don't think this is rod knock as the engine ran fine before the timing belt snapped and bent the valves on the old heads. 

All good, still probably was a good idea to replace it and I probably should of specified that it was SOHC

15 hours ago, silverton said:

if you can find a metal one, go for it!  A vice is the easiest thing to use.  manual says to compress it very slowly, it should be a 3-5 minute process.  Don't stick the pin in too far! I've done that and it wont be able to bolt in.

I managed to find one that was metal and got it for $3. I believe I have timed everything correctly. Turned over fine without any locking. 

23 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

A generic looking plastic gear shouldn't be more than a few bucks at a local junkyard... How much do you trust yourself to actually get that cam bolt out at a junkyard lol

This isn't a DOHC so I shouldn't have bolts break, It's a single cam so I'm not too worried about the bolts. 

8 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

For what it's worth just replace it. I was about to keep running the exhaust cams gears on mine and eventually decided it's not worth the risk.

These are cheaper than having it break later. I had already bought the intake gears so it was a no brainer.

Mine were just a little chewed on the wrench points. But after 254K opted for new.

That is true, from the looks of it I can scoop a good used cam gear for around $10 at a local you pull yard. I just had the heads rebuilt and resealed mostly everything I rather not have over $1k sinked in this engine go to waste. 

1 hour ago, silverton said:

Part of me says that's fiiiiine.  Part of me says replace it.  But also, how in the world did you nick the cam gear like that while turning it over? Definitely be more diligent if you replace it.

6 hours ago, blackobxt said:

You’re probably going to get multiple opinions on this but I did a motor on an 05 Sti once and recommended changing the gears that looked a little suspect and the customer declined, a few months later he was beating on the car and one of the gears came apart. Unfortunately for him, I documented that he declined my recommendation. It’s 13yr old plastic so imo it’d be a cheap insurance policy to change them.

Yeah guess I might go to a you pull and try to get a metal cam gear instead of the plastic ones, definitely my fault accidentally hit it with the breaker bar when turning it over.

Anyways I'm assuming I'm going to have to now recompress the tensioner since the grenade pin has been removed. Is there a certain procedure? Don't want to destroy the tensioner as it's new.

Hello all,

I have a 09 Legacy engine I'm working on, I assembled all the timing components and pulled the timing tensioner pin. When turning it I accidentally nicked the timing gear would you still run it? It's plastic which I hate but don't want to dissasemble all of this again. I just don't want to have issues with the belt jumping off or something.  All teeth seem to be intact on the gear. 

On 9/25/2022 at 10:26 AM, Max Capacity said:

Talk with the machine shop about the heads as they will be checking the heads for flatness before you install them. Let them tell you the best heads to use/pick from.

 

Member, "apexi" is good with 2.5i's, PM him.

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/  You may need the service manual.

Okay thank you, They said to use the ones that haven't been machined yet. But if you know the answer to this question if not thank you anyways, does spinning the engine backwards cause damage to the oil pump on these engines? 

Hello all,

My 2009 Legacy 2.5I has leaking externally head gaskets on the used motor I put on, so I decided I might as well refresh the engine that I have pulled out of the vehicle. 

As far as I know the block is good except heads may have some valve damage, engine was pulled and replaced because it was thought that the Tensioner bolted into the block and not a bracket that is the moment I wish I'd done more research more jumping on it.

The head gaskets were already done on this motor, so I'm assuming the heads were already machined and I'm assuming there is a limit to how much they can be machined. I did manage to get a free engine with heads and intake etc off of craigslist off an Impreza as the block had rod knock, The heads are good and valves look fine, the heads on this motor have around 74k miles, the ones I managed to get free have 119k and were never touched so which ones would you use? I am also planning on replacing the head bolts as they as well have been most likely reused and I don't feel comfortable reusing them a third time.

Obviously getting the heads off the Impreza EJ rebuilt would be cheaper at around $300 for valve seals etc while if there is damage on the original heads it would cost me up of 400+ for both heads.

Also back then I did turn the engine backwards as I was stupid and did not know that usually can cause damage to an engine, can any damage occur from spinning these engines by hand backwards?
 

Finally, I do plan on getting a gasket kit from Subaru to replace all the seals and gaskets.  I do want to use the MLS OEM subaru gaskets so is this the correct part number? 11044AA770

I'm also going to use the Aisin kit for the timing belts as I've used it before on my Impreza.

I believe I've covered everything I wanted to in this post, is there any other advice you would suggest? I've already done head gaskets on my 09 Impreza and used felpro but this time I wanted to use oem as this is my daily.