Ultimateduster

From the manuel I guess the specs are ok. I don't think its a exhaust leak as its not throwing any codes for that and when I mounted up the exhaust to the heads I used fresh gaskets that I coated very thoroughly in copper gasket spray as well.

I built a smoke machine so I can test all the vacuum lines so I guess I'll check the exhaust as well to be 100%.

I had driven the car about 15 miles and then left it running as I ran the tests so it was fully warmed. I'm pretty sure it i remember seeing it say it was in closed loop when reading the sensors. I just don't understand why I was getting a 2.6 reading when everything I find online says it should be .5 range

@pleides I just took off my cam sensor to check and it dosent have a o ring or a spot for it. I'm guessing the SOHC NA motors don't have one

I located a reader with live data and a inferred thermometer.

The readings I got really confuse me though.

First the o2s

S1 was staying pretty steady around 2.6 range

S2 was moving fast from .1 to .8 range

First I thought s1 was pre cat and s2 was post but from the readings it would indicate the other way around.

Second a reading of 2.6? I didn't think this was supposed to be over 1 volt.

 

I had a hard time with trying to get under the car enough to get great temp readings but from what I could get the temp was 20 hotter from the front to back of the first converter and it the 2nd converter produced about the same temp front to back.

 

Can anyone shed some light here?

So today the dreaded p0420 code popped up, I guess it waited for the drive cycle to complete. Thinking thats maybe why it feels stiff and under powered. Ive read about it here on the forums but I don't have a inferred thermometer and my scanner tells me the o2 live scanning is supported. Trying to locate one or both from friends.

Good tip, will do. Thanks max. I notice a drop this morning after a short drive. Found the upper radiator hose was leaking alittle at the clamp to the engine. Tightened so hope it gone now.

She feels pretty stiff still, I'm hoping it's just cause it was sitting for a year and not that I should tighten the valves alittle. I used to run the iridium plugs but only had money for the coppers at the moment, would this be a noticeable difference in this engine?

Update. Its all back together and running good. Glad I could bring her back from death. Thanks everyone for the guidance.

Its the automatic with the sports shift. I appreciate the info, was losing my mind looking for it. Saved me a trip to the junkyard in the morning as well.

 

The cars been sitting since the belt broke and bent the valves for about a year. After replacing the head gaskets and valves is there anything else I should be aware of before trying to start it again?

I'm assuming the gas went bad, I added stabil but not till a few weeks ago. I know I have to change the oil/filter and refill the coolant. Not worried about the freeon till its running ( I do have a vacuum pump/guages).

Checked valves with belt on and all is good still.

I seem to have lost the half moon shaped bracket that goes above the timing belt/crank. Ive looked everywhere but can't locate it. Is this part necessary or just a precaution? At a stand still till I know.

I just did the timing belt today, I will recheck the valves now that it's on to make sure they are still good.

When I pre lashed them while they were taken totally off so I could put new valves in. I then installed them to the block and torqued them. Timing belt isn't on the car yet.

I got the heads back on and just wanted to update. I did pre adjust the valves on the bench but after I torqued them on the engine they tightened up so I had to readjust. Just figured I would update for anyone else with the same question. Thanks again for everyone's help

I'll be setting them tomorrow and I'll post back results, just finished cleaning the heads and lapping the new valves/ today so hopefully I'll get them back in tomorrow.

Ok thank you for the clarification tehnation.

You guys have been a big help.

@boxkita ah now your previous comment makes sense about the obsession over .001 lol.

You mentioned buckets on yours. Mine is the screw and nut type, I don't see any buckets. Its one or the other correct?

Ok thanks box. I got the parts arriving tomorrow. Would you happen to know the measurements in metric?

I pretty much always use metric anyway because all the motorcycles I rebuild are Japanese. I tend to make these in the middle of the range, is that a good practice for this engine as well?

Ok ill set them on my bench then cause I pulled the heads with the engine still in the car so getting to the lash will be a pita after. Thanks guys for your responses.

Gotcha. So I shouldn't set the clearance to what it says in the service manual if I do it while the heads off? Should it be more clearance?

FSM clearances?

Does anyone here know if I set the valve clearance while I have the heads off will it still be good after I remount the heads or would I need to redo it?

Thanks @max capacity

You've been a great help

The timing belt broke on my 2005 legacy and I'm trying to find a manual to make sure I'm put it back together right.

Ej25 naturally aspirated SOHC

 

After getting the heads off I found i got lucky and only bent 12/16 valves. The pistons and heads are fine. I got the parts of order and just wanted a manual for torq specs and procedures. If someone has a spare or a pdf they could part with would be greatly appreciated.