OBXTNoob

UPDATE:

 

Alright so, I put everything back together and after I started the car a crazy amount of white smoke came out the tailpipe, and the Uppipe was smoking a little. After taking a closer look, I saw that the smoke was coming from the flange were the UP connects to manifold... then I saw some oil drips. Immediately my heart sank. I inspected everything around the turbo and valve cover and it was all dry. My conclusion was that it was the turbo leaking internally. I reached out to a friend who is a good mechanic and has experience with performance cars. Told me to drive it around the block and see if the oil drip increased. To my surprise the oil drip decreased and after I left the car running for a few minutes it stopped smoking and dipping completely....The turbo had no play at all, everything was installed accordingly, no visible leaks...I did notice that the inside of the uppipe was covered in oil( I bought it used). My question is, could it be the oil inside the uppipe that was just burning off and turning into a drip since it got hot when the car started running? I also checked my coolant and oil levels, before and after running the car and levels didn't change. Anyone have this issue? If the smoking stops and no drip is found from here on, is it a good idea to assume that the issue is resolved? Is the scenario that I described even possible?

 

So for the good news, I only have to put in the fuel pump and I'm ready for a tune. (If the turbo is ok that is...)

The nuts don't fit? You're having a harder go of it than I did. Here is the carnage of the nut I wrestled with. The stud came out before the nut did. Hours of heat, chiseling, and wrenching did nothing. Ultimately it was an oscillating multi-tool I borrowed from my contractor that did it.

 

Wow! And you would think that after paying hundreds of dollars for aftermarket parts they would have corrected the issue by now...

That is one area you'll want to use high temp anti-seize (I used copper). The downpipe-to-turbo flange is very tight as you probably already discovered. Getting a socket on one or two of those nuts is impossible.

 

Dude that realization broke my heart lol... I was so excited to put it all together only to find the nuts don't fit. Luckily, I didn't think long enough and just grinded the nut flanges down with a dremel. AND THEN I ran into the angle issue with the modified DP..... So now I gotta take it off put the new DP on and hope the issue is resolved... It should have been tuned and on the road by now. Definitely a learning process.

i took stainless steel wire and did a diamond pattern over the heat wrap on mine.

 

after 2 years it might be the only thing keeping the wrap on the downpipe

 

Yup, I have to redo the downpipe because my welded one gives me a crazy angle and points into the bottom of the car. I just ordered a new Invidia DP specific for my car.

You might want to make sure that the edge of the hole isn't sharp but a bit rounded because a sharp edge is more heat sensitive than a rounded and more prone to stressing of the material. Of course - if you already have removed material it might not be much room left to do that now.

 

 

 

 

https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/26514/why-do-stress-concentrations-really-occur?rq=1

 

Well, I mean I left a bit more room than the old hot side had but the turbo is already sitting in the car...

dont forget a quality air oil separator

 

you gonna need it with all that power on a block with 140k

 

 

my daily is a 2008 OBXT

act clutch

white line sways

killer bee oil pick up and windlass

cylinder 4 cooling mod

stoptech pads and rotors

avo top mount

iag air oil separator

cobb short throw shifter

cobb intake with air box

cobb down pipe

30k on new long block with rebuilt heads

rebuilt 5 speed

 

silvers coil overs with swift springs order this week

 

going to a vf 52 with fueling this spring

 

she is the go fast grocery getter

 

Hahaha yeah groceries and fly fishing mobile for me. Yeah man I gotta get my car complete with everything I’m doing and get it tuned first. Don’t want to drop more money right now. Atleast until the spring time. Btw I was reading that the oil separator is not as effective as people say it is and that it’s not even worth getting. I dunno

Here are some photos of what I did today.

 

New VF52 Hotside

 

 

Ported WG on New Hotside

 

 

Don't get yourself all twisted into a knot. Unless you're a SEMA show car builder, you don't have to get everything right in one go. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. I find that it also helps to get thoughts out of my head and onto a spreadsheet or something.

 

Thanks man, I just get too into things, I started to work on the car at 9 and stopped at 4 because it got dark. I had my first meal at 5 Crazy I know.

 

So I got the downpipe and the turbo in and let me tell you that oil return hose on the underside of the turbo is a MOFO to get in. Took forever to align everything. I ended up using the screwing clamps instead of the OEM ones. I had to tighten the side closer to the turbo first then slide it onto the tube on the engine and then tightening it from underneath the car with a long ass extension and socket. No idea why the put everything so close. I wrapped my DP (and UpPipe), with the DEI Titanium wrap. Was happy as hell and when I went to tighten the 5 nuts on the DP, the flanged nuts didn't have clearance because of the additional girth from the SS ziptie and wrap......this was an issue on only two nuts so I grinded the flanges down on the nuts to fit them but tomorrow I will redo the wrap a few inches lower to give me proper clearance. I want to torque the everything to suggested specifications. Ugh...if I ever have to do this again I will fly through the entire process.

Winter mode.

 

Damn man your car looks fresh af

Yeah, iphone is a problem. But you can do like me: permanent wired install of a tablet in the cubby. I've had a Nexus 7 installed in there for the past 4-5 years now.

 

Do you have a guide to do that? Also show me some pics of how it looks in the car. Appreciate it.

Wow that is actually pretty dope....only problem is that I have an iPhone....

Man this build has got me going crazy. I can't fall asleep because I keep thinking about what I need to do to the car, and the more I think the more I come up with. Yesterday I read something about wrapping the DP, UP and using a turbo blanket in combination with a heatshield. So my question is wouldn't the turbo get too hot with a blanket on it? I'm putting a new hot side on already and from my understanding the vf52 turbos crack due to heat.....so why use additional wraps and put the turbo in danger? Had anyone wrapped their turbo? I am aware of the heatsoak btw Also should I wrap the uppipe since I have it off right now?

Re: protecting your car from corrosion, I recently switched from Fluid Film to CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. The latter is basically a sprayable Cosmoline. It's more durable than Fluid Film and does not remain tacky, attracting dust etc.

 

Hmm...I already bought fluid film and the gun...I was gonna apply it after I finish installing all the stuff. I can probably still return it since I got it all at Amazon. Does the CRC stuff spay out the same way as the Fluid Film?

Yeah, it does require some force to put them in. I usually use the end of a long socket extension and make sure I apply even force. You don't want to have a pinched oring. Do you have Btssm?

 

btssm? If that's the adapter for the OBD2 then no. I'm gonna get the Cobb Accessport V3, dunno if those are the same.

Did you use new orings for the fuel injectors as well as some lube?

 

I sent my injectors to WitchHunter Performance for clean/test so all the accessories are brand new. I oiled up the rings ( only the rings) so they could slide in better. It was still difficult to pop them in but I got it done. It was nothing like the videos I watched on youtube lol Definitely couldn't pop them in without some effort.

Just keep the old housing as a backup since it's still usable.

 

 

Pump out some fuel, add octane booster?

 

 

I have a N/A Outback, I think ill just pump most of the fuel out and put it in the other car. Then I will just get like 5 gallons of 93, just so I can drive to the gas station and fill up.

 

 

Update: I got the hot side off the turbo (was a bitch to get off but patience, PB blaster and a hammer got the job done). Installed the 740cc injectors and let me tell you, that wasn't nowhere as easy as it should have been. Why the hell are all the lines coming from the engine so close to the injectors, I have no ******* clue. Was ridiculous but I got it done.

The crack is due to heat stress, and even though it looks bad it could even seal up when it gets hot during driving.

 

 

If there's no fluid channel or so involved in that part of the housing I would just leave it. It's a design flaw of the turbo and a new one would get the same crack over time. A different turbo model that's designed differently in that area may be the only way out of this.

 

 

 

Only real way to prevent this crack to form is to ensure you warm up softly and cool down softly.

 

 

The mating surface for the flap and the flap itself is more important.

 

 

Cracks in other places where the mating between the housings are impacted is another issue though.

 

Yeah based on what I have been reading that sounds accurate. However, I really want this build to not give me any problems, especially initially during tuning. I ordered a new hot side housing and will install it on the turbo. I just don't want to have anxiety every time I push the car a little extra. An additional $125 for a peace of mind is definitely worth it for me.

So while the turbo part is on its way I will install the DW65c pump, my DW740cc injectors, new sparkplugs, EBCS, and anything else I can get done.

 

Funny thing is that like an idiot I filled up my car with 89 octane by accident so now I gotta pump that out too before the tune

Also, I came across this issue...

 

When I bought the turbo I did not even see the little hairline crack because the flap was closed with a grimmspeed EWG bracket. People have told me that I can run the tubro like that since it is a tiny crack, which is pretty common on this turbo. However, since it is out of the car and I found it I wanna do the right thing. I can either buy another hot side housing, I found some online for $125.00, but I'm afraid that it is made out of some bullshit material or I can weld it and repair the crack. Thoughts?

 

I am literally ready to put all of this stuff back, and I keep running into issues. This is my first time doing anything like this myself but I should have been done by now for sure. On top of that, I will be upgrading my fuel injectors to DW740 and fuel pump to dw65c(this I am nervous about).

Dyno tuners use an O2 bung and then bypass the check engine code and active readings from your rear O2 if you have an aftermarket downpipe.

 

Also, what about the aftermarket BOV sound do you like? It's highly advisable to leave the factory BPV on the car until it fails because MAF cars like ours do NOT like vent-to-atmosphere valves. An aftermarket intake will get you most of the sound you're looking for, I think.

 

I like the sound honestly, I wouldn't go full atmosphere. Didn't know that would be a problem tbh. So if I go 50/50 on a hybrid GFB BOV it would fail the MAF? I will actually keep the intake stock for now. From my understandin it is sufficient for what I'm doing.

I cannot fully answer your questions, but there is no o2 sensor in the uppipe. It is (was) an EGT sensor.

 

The o2 sensor is located right before the uppipe in the exhaust manifold.

 

The ECU relies on this sensor while running in closed loop (i.e. checks the amount of air that was sucked in, then use the ECU to figure how much fuel to send, then check what the o2 sensor reads in terms of AFR and compare with ECU values, if too lean or too rich, then correct the fuel amount accordingly).

 

In open loop, it no longer relies on the o2 sensor to figure out how much fuel needs to be injected in the engine. It just looks at values stored in the ECU given the amount of air that was sucked in the engine and some other parameters.

 

 

The rear o2 sensor is what is installed in the downpipe. Can't remember exactly its function, but I think it checks catalytic operation I think? Someone can correct everything I said here .

 

Ok, so this means I do not necessarily need the rear o2 sensor.. Correct? Someone told me that it regulates Air/Fuel ratio and that I will need it for dyno tuning, and if I do not have it that my car will run rich as **** because of a safety mechanism.

So I finally got around to my project. So far I took my up pipe, turbro, and downpipe off. When I compared the OEM Downpipe to the Used Invidia pipe I bought, the Invidia downpipe is about 4 inches too short.... After doing some research, I found that for what ever reason, some years of the car had a shorter downpipe. Since I got it for 100 bucks I will just have someone cut it and weld in an extension so that the flange can reach and connect to the rest of the exhaust. Also the bung for the back o2 sensor was plugged with a bolt, when I removed the bold it seems like the hole is too small to fit the OEM 02 sensor.... I know this sensor is useless since there is no cat in the aftermarket downpipe I bought. So if there is no o2 sensor connected on the downpipe and uppipe, will my performance or function of the car be effected? I'm assuming everyone does this since grimmspeed uppipe doesn't have a sensor bung and a catless downpipe sensor is useless since there is no cat... I know this is probably an old topic but I tried searching the forum and cannot find much info on this. Can I have someone please verify this? All the feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

Damn that thing looks mean!

Wow bro! Those look so sexy!

 

I think I have about 800 miles on the engine break in so far. To make my dyno tune with snail performance more worth while, I think I will get a VF52 from Hill Country Forced Induction, catless uppipe, fuel pump,grimmspeed tmic and cobb ebcs. Then hopefully I can push 300hp while saving for my 450hp parts stash

 

Awesome dude! I literally got all the parts you listed laying in my garage right now. From my understanding the vf52 will need to be ported out to prevent boost creep. I also got a downpipe and dw740cc injectors. I got all my parts used in real good condition for $900, so you can definitely make 300whp on a budget.

 

 

And the brakes look great btw!

Freaking awesome! Dude was that your first time doing an engine rebuild like that? How much experience do you have working on cars?