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puddles

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    East Coast, US
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    08 Legacy GT

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  1. I finally got some time to pull the little indicator PCB from the overhead console last night. Some of the solder joints looked cold and thin, but not actually cracked, so I was skeptical that this would fix it. Either way, I still gave it a shot and added some quality leaded solder and reflowed everything I saw. So far, it seems to have fixed it. It was intermittent before and I haven't driven it much yet, but hopefully that was it and it doesn't come back. Crossing my fingers and knocking on wood. I got the return started on the Launch CRP123X. I'll probably get the Ancel AD610.
  2. Nice KZ, Jonny. Here's mine. Got it around 2005, finished rebuilding it in 2010. It is mostly stock, except for the wheels, brakes and fork lowers. Since this picture it sat in a damp garage and got covered in mold and rust, but I went over it last summer and got it back to roughly this condition. I also feel like I'm stuck with it at this point since I couldn't sell it for 10% of what I put into it (not including time), but I love it so that's fine.
  3. KZJonny, thanks for the effort. My other vehicle is a 79 KZ650 if that's what your user name is referring to.
  4. Thanks for the recommendation. If I can't get any leads on using the CRP123X soon I might try to return it and get that. Do you know if yours is a an AD610, AD610 Elite or AD610 Plus? Also, are you touching any connectors except the OBD2 port to do the scan? Anyone else? Is anyone familiar with the CRP123X or know of anything else I'm missing? Anyone else have any other recommendations?
  5. Where is this connector on an 08 Legacy? I don't need to connect anything when reflashing, except for the accessport itself to the OBD2 connector.
  6. Sorry bother everyone with this on Christmas eve. Hopefully if you're bothering to read this, you're not bothered. I have an intermittent airbag light on my gauge cluster. This is on my 2008 Legacy GT 5MT. I will be doing the overhead console PCB solder repair either way as a preventative maintenance, but I'd still like to know how to read these codes - either in case that doesn't fix it, or just for future reference. I've found info on other years and models that are supposed to have an airbag/srs diagnostic connector under the dash that allows you to "blink" out the codes by connecting the right pins. However, I can't find any such thing and I don't see anything about it in the diagnostic procedure in the service manual for my year. This site seems to claim there is such a connector up to 2009. https://codes.rennacs.com/SRS-Airbag/Japanese-Korean/Subaru-Airbags.php I also tried buying a Launch CRP123X scan tool. This should be the same as the CRP123 recommended in some other threads, just with a touch screen. When I try to connect to the SRS system through the ODB2 port, it says it's not found. It is able to identify the car, show the VIN and read out all the normal DTC's, emissions readiness, etc. So it does work in some capacity, but not for anything I can't already do with my Accessport, so it's essentially useless. So my question is this - does anyone know if or how a launch scan tool can read srs codes from a 2008 Legacy GT 5MT? Is there something I need to do with the car or the tool to enable this? Is there another connector I need to connect? Alternatively, is there a better tool I should use that is known to work with this exact car?
  7. bdcvg, that also makes sense. From what everyone said, it makes sense that the neck down before the split is not a problem. I talked to the owner of the shop and he also said that it would help with noise, as I asked that that it not be excessively loud. Given all this, I agreed that the location of the neck down was not an issue and asked only to have the muffler tips better aligned with the bumper cutouts. He offered to do this free of charge along with some other things, given the issues I found under the hood, and will be overseeing the work personally.
  8. It does sound good. Invidia down-pipe and Vibrant mufflers, so I'm pretty happy with it as far as the sound goes. I haven't taken my car to them multiple times, only once. It was supposed to be a reputable shop. There was some mechanical work done at the same time as the exhaust and I found all sorts of problems under the hood, which makes me question the exhaust work as well. I used to work as a mechanic years ago, but I told myself "my life is too busy to do all this right now. I don't have access to a lift and other tools. I can afford to pay for it. Etc., etc. etc." Now I'm feeling like a fool, and kicking myself for trying to throw money at it instead of just rolling up my sleeves and doing more of the work myself. This kind of thing makes me feel like the only way to get something done right is to do it yourself. I feel like I re-learned this lesson the hard way. I ended up having to put in the time to fix a bunch of issues anyhow. So anyhow, I'm trying to figure out what to do. I'm trying to decide if I should just cut my losses and move on, ask for a refund on some of the labor, or give them a second chance and ask them to fix anything (I've already fixed most of it myself, but I'm not a welder).
  9. I get what everyone's saying, that 2.5 inches after the down-pipe is plenty, but I can't agree with the following: This doesn't make sense. If the neck down is before the split, you're going down to a smaller pipe when there is only one pipe to flow through. This is a much smaller restriction than if you stay at 3" until after the split when there are two pipes to flow through. Once you're flowing through two pipes, going down to 2.5" is less restrictive because you only need to flow half the exhaust through each pipe at that point. Maybe the difference is not significant at stage 2, but there certainly is a difference. I won't be staying at stage 2 forever, and if you've gone through the trouble of running 3" all the way from the down-pipe to the rear axle, why negate the benefit inches before the split? I paid a premium for this, so I wouldn't be happy if they compromised anything to use up what they had lying around. I will bring this up respectfully, but this isn't the only issue I had with this shop. I had other work done and found loose nuts and bolts, half seated hoses, hoses with no clamps, low coolant, etc. I even found damaged breather hoses reused and two washers on the oil plug, both causing oil leaks.
  10. Not sure what you mean by 3" into the oem split. It's a 3" Invidia catted downpipe, then custom piping all the way back to new Vibrant mufflers. I guess I didn't realize I needed to "specify" this. I was sold on a "top of the line custom exhaust" and "we'll take care of everything, you'll be very happy with it." As far as the tip alignment, they're not even mirrored from each other, meaning that if you stand behind the car, one is off center by a certain amount, and the other is off center by a different amount. On the passenger side it's nearly touching. There is maybe a quarter inch of clearance. In any case, the tip alignment was an aside. My real question is what is the best practice for transitioning from 3" to 2.5". Is it normal to do this before the split, or is that nonsensical? It certainly seems like it would be less restrictive to step down after the split. Would power be effected?
  11. Do you agree on the piping being wrong?
  12. I recently had a custom exhaust installed, which was supposed to be 3" to 2.5." I think I assumed would mean 3" piping until AFTER the split before the mufflers, but I noticed that it goes from 3" down to 2.5" BEFORE the split. Is that right? It seems like you wouldn't want that restriction until after the split. Was this lazy or cost-costing on materials? I did ask for a quieter tone, could that have anything to do with it? I thought that would be more to do with the muffler selection (Vibrant). Just wanted get opinions. Another issue I see is that the muffler tips are really poorly aligned with the bumper cutouts.
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