ohno06gt

5 hours ago, All_talk said:

With one wheel in the air and the trans in park (driveline locked), the raised wheel should not turn. With both wheels off the ground and the car in park the wheels should spin opposite of each other.

 

In that situation the raised wheel turns freely with a crunchy sound coming from the rear diff/axle stub as seen in the video in the first post. 

Another forum member stated that is normal operation for an open diff.

35 minutes ago, silverton said:

That's normal operation for an open 

Ok what about that crunchy sound when I spin it?  Is it possible that the wheel bearing is shot but I'm not getting any play because the brakes are holding it in place? 

1 minute ago, Infosecdad said:

According to cars101.com (https://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/legacy2006.html) the FD for the 5EAT is 3.272

That's what I'm seeing as well.  Trying to see if the diff came in any other cars.

Is one wheel supposed to turn like that with the other on the ground?  

One wheel shouldn't spin like that with the other on the ground or am I wrong?  

Located in Northwest ct.

I don't see the 5eat listed on any of those.   Checking around for some local part outs.  

How bad is the replacement?  Is it possible to remove/install the diff without removing axles from the knuckle? 

Edit:  Didn't realize I posted this in classifieds.   If a mod sees this please move to the appropriate forum.

Noticed the car was shaking around 60mph.  When I turn right and shift the weight to the driver's side it gets worse and the vibration almost goes away when I turn left and shift the weight to the passenger side.   I thought it was a wheel bearing.   Jacked up the car and none of the tires have play. 

With one rear wheel on the ground the other spins freely with a nice crunchy sound coming from the rear diff. 

The car is an 06 with a 5eat.  Which differentials are compatible?  

Yes I cleaned both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol.  Thinking about trying a t-bolt clamp or something similar.  

I just have to be careful when replacing the clamp.  The vacuum fitting on the compressor housing is directly below the inlet.  I swapped clamps a few weeks ago and ended up tearing the vaccum line.  Had to pull the turbo to reconnect the line.

In the beginning of June I installed a Perrin turbo inlet on my 2006 Legacy gt.  A few times a week I've been having to readjust the inlet and tighten the clamp back down due to it slipping off the snout of the turbo.

Right now I've been using the original clamp but have been looking into other ways to secure this thing to the turbo.  

I get the inlet fully seated on the turbo but within a few days it slips back a good half inch.  Does anyone have any recommendations on clamp types/sizes that might work better?

Looking for either jdm facelift or valenti/hanabi tails for 4th gen wagon.

I had bad luck with subiestickers.  The overlay for my front emblem was too large.  I measured the emblem to the mm and he sent another one that was too small.  I just gave up lol.

Thanks man, I must have been looking at the wrong troubleshooting chart.  It started working again for a 5 mile drive, when I restarted it stopped working.

Probably going to order the sensor today.  Just trying to decide if I should get another Denso or an AEM wideband.

Dealing with a p0031 code in a 2006 Legacy gt. It was happening intermittently for for a few weeks but now it's constant. Afr is stuck at 14.7 on accessport.  It is a denso 02 sensor that has 15k miles on it.  

I checked the resistance on the 02 sensor heater circuit and it's 6.9 ohms. The diagnostic chart said that if it's under 10 ohms the sensor is good so I'm looking elsewhere.

The 02 sensor voltage was reading around .6 on my accessport when the car was warmed up.

The chart I was following said to check the output signal from ecm while the car is idling. How exactly do I preform this? Do I unplug the connector from the ecm and check the terminals on the ecm? Back probe the connector while it's still plugged in?

Any input/advice will be appreciated. I know very little about electricity so I'm learning as I'm going along.

Thanks

Starter is most likely original from what I can tell.  Yesterday it was in the mid 40's so I tried to jumpstart it and got the same results.  

Tried to do a voltage drop test on the starter but not sure if I did it correctly.  I had a probe on the wire going to solenoid and the other probe grounded.  When first cranking it read around 8v but dropped to 6.5v as cranking slowed down.

Tried to start my car this morning, it cranked a few times then I heard a whining sound for a split second.  Now it's cranking really slow and won't start.  Battery voltage is good and not throwing any CEL's.  It was -20 degrees outside this morning.

Any ideas?  Possibly starter?  My neighbor said it probably jumped timing but I don't see how that could happen just starting it.  Any input will be appreciated.

On the way to work today my abs light popped on.   C0105 for rear right speed sensor and C0109 for power voltage malfunction.  Battery tested good and alternator is charging well.

Any ideas on how to narrow down the issue?  

On 12/1/2022 at 8:18 PM, Febreze Mee said:

Hmm...def start there. If the knuckle looks fine, it's more than likely fine. The only other things I could things of would be inner tie rods, and if you have a strut tower bar —making sure it's tight at the top hats and at the adjustment points as the bar can run really tight against firewall pinch weld. Let us know what changes after you grease the end links. 

Ended up being the lateral locks for my whiteline fsb.  I'm guessing the suspension geometry changed slightly with the new ball joint and was causing it to creak on the passenger side.

On 12/2/2022 at 5:10 PM, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

How’s it ride with minis and H&Rs? That’s frustrating to hear creaks with new stuff installed. A friend bought a Q5 and replaced the entire front end to chase down a creak. Turned out to be loose subframe bolts (all of them). Hopefully you can figure out what’s going on…

I love the ride and feel of the koni/h&r's.  Ride quality is a touch stiffer than stock but nothing jarring or unbearable.  The roads here in Ct are terrible but they seem to take it well. 

Car feels more planted and has less body roll through ther twisties.  Also greatly reduced the squat and dive. 

18 minutes ago, Febreze Mee said:

Springs/struts? FSB bushings?Dry end links?

Did koni's/h&r springs back in September everything was good with them, fresh top hats as well.  Fsb bushings look ok from what I can tell, still greased up. The end links did seem a little tough to move, they have fittings so I'll borrow a grease gun and give that a shot.

I'm hoping I didn't mess up the knuckle somehow when I was wrestling the ball joint out.  It put up quite the fight but visually the knuckle looks fine from the outside.

So damn frustrated with this car.   Replaced the ball joint a few days ago and everything was good.  This afternoon it started creaking when turning at low speeds and over bumps.  

Jacked up the car to double check torque specs and everything was good.   Just scratching my head now wondering what the hell is going on. 

Tried to pull my ball joint today with the astro pneumatic tool.  It ripped the threads right off the ball joint so now I'm really stuck.   All the shops around are scheduled 2-3 weeks out so trying to figure this out. 

I was able to get the castle nut past the bad threads to secure the control arm to use for leverage.  Not sure where to go from here.   I've stuck a socket in the gap between the lca and knuckle and lowered the car but it's still not coming out.

Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Started on removing my ball joint.  After soaking in atf/acetone and kroil for 2 weeks the pinch bolt came out in one piece.  Looking at the threads it doesn't look like it penetrated much.  Once I got a little movement I just kept working it back and forth until it came out.  Tried a few different tricks to remove the ball joint from the knuckle but it only pulled out a few mm.  Ordered the astro pneumatic puller so hopefully that does the trick.

Had a clunking in the front end that's been getting progressively worse.  Jacked it up and realized it's my ball joint.  Started lubing up the pinch bolt and ball joint on passenger side.  Ordered the astro pneumatic ball joint tool.

Don't even want to drive the car right now.   I've seen what happens when one lets loose on the road.

Anyone have tips for ball joint replacement?  Praying I don't have to drill the pinch bolt out.

Oil pressure gauge is the next thing I'm doing to this car.  I see alot of people use the spot under the alternator for the sensor.  Any reason why you chose that spot? 

8 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

I hit the Dyno Monday, the car is finally done. the car is on 93 only Not E-85. I made 331HP/369TQ. I do have the Proof and will post it. I have all supporting mods with the new Hybird gt25 turbo (It's like an 16-18G, closer to 18g with custom wheel and other bits) it's still a VF52 but rebuilt. yes It was a Brand new VF52 from subaru that I had them custom make after about 4k miles. You can see my new 3inch on. it made the mufflers a bit weird but it's not a big deal cause the performance is what I really wanted. it made a very big deal with the flow.  it's Nameless performance and the way its made they had to make the mufflers off a tad. 6200 miles on the build and now back in the garage pretty much unless it is nice in the winter days a head. I will post the dyno sheet once I get back home.

Big thanks to Max and his build link, and all the other OG's on the site for help. This took about 4 years. STI brakes next, then once the trans goes STI 6MT with DCCD.

331HP/369TQ - NON- E85 I do have the whole build list if people want to know.

 

Did Pavel build the turbo?

Took the car for a spirited drive down a very familiar road today.   The koni/h&r combo performed beautifully.  Inputs seem so much more direct and it takes harsh bumps easier than the 148k mile oem suspension.  So glad I didn't go with cheapo coilovers.  Body roll, squat and dive is greatly reduced.  

All are set at 1 full turn from soft but will be analyzing the ride and dialing in over the next few days.