My TOB Squeal Solution - Alt Clutch Fork Return Spring

I just installed an ACT HD clutch and 06' WRX FW. Everything went fine until I started the experience some TOB squeal. Typical symptoms where it is fine with the clutch in and squeals like a pig when engaged. Very annoying. I have no idea if it is dangerous, thank god for this forum because I was about to drop the tranny again and replace the bearing and inspect the fork.

 

After messing with the method outlined in post 10 here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78095&highlight=tob+fork I found that a slightly different approach quieted my system down. I only drove it around the block so I will let you know how it holds up. Feel free to post some pics of your install if you have a better way.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/mschmidt/DSC05350.jpg

I used some 2mm thick, 19mm wide 409 stainless for the bracket. I bent it in some pliers and drilled a big hole to attach it to one of the starter/bell housing bolts. I put another very small hole in it for a ~9lb Home Depot spring. I may trim up the bracket later. I found that I had no chance drilling through the fork so I used an automotive clip from my old cavalier that attached the splash guard under the front bumper. I may turn the bracket 90 degrees if I find it starts to touch the pin. I used the shortest M6 I had and put the other end of the spring sandwiched in the middle with a few nuts and lock washers. I may add some loctite later if this does not hold. Let me know what you think and if I should be good to go.

Anyone know how and STI does this? Pulling the fork to the side stopped the squeal for me but I can't image a load in that direction is actually doing any "releasing". Let me know your thoughts. Maybe it is just holding the fork down from vibrating against the tob. Is this safe? It did good all day today.

My apporach is pretty much a quick and dirty copy of the OE STI setup. The STI comes out of the factory with a hole drilled in the fork and a proper bracket that the spring connects to.

I too found it to be virtually impossible to drill while on the vehicle. That's why I just hooked the spring on the side of the fork. I think the underlying issue is that the clutch pack thinckness is just a couple milimeters off and the slave cylinder piston doesn't return far enough to let all pressure off the fork/TOB. This is the reason for trying to pull it toward the front of the car to remove that pressure and lift the fork off the TOB.

I don't know about going sideways as it will apply pressure in a direction other than the natural travel of the fork. It may silence the noise, but I don't know if it will damage the clutch fork pin and the salve cyliner over time. I've had my fix installed on my car for over 9 months and 9K miles and all is well.

thanks for the info... perhaps I should relook at your method but with a longer spring in the 9lb range.

The spring I used came from Home Depot. It is one of those that is used on a door closer.

I'm sorry guys, I don't wanna sound like a noob, but I'm havin this same problem and have NO CLUE as to what I'm lookin at in that picture.

Due to the side load my solution was putting on the fork, I added another spring to help even it out. Pic below. I did not have any issues, this just adds some peace of mind.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/mschmidt/DSC05719.jpg

I was meaning to try and fix this. Thx for the pics. BTW the STI return spring is like 3 bucks from a dealer..