Jduke Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Ive searched , but have not come up with any install post for the front sway bar? Has anyone done a write up on this yet? Links to post? Thanks for your time. John D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Nothing special, just have to drive the car on ramps at best to unload the stock sway bar.. disconnect the endlinks, unbolt all the bolts holding the sway bar, unbolt the brace plate. Install the new sway with the stock endlinks.. and put everything back together.. job complete. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jduke Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 Yea I figured its an easy job. Was not sure if there was anything i needed heads up on. Ill get it done tonight.... Got the rear on last night, what a difference. thanks! John D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Make sure you have the correct torque specs for the bolts as well...check the vacation pix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jduke Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 vacation pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 search and ye shall find a wonderful thing! The only thing hard about the front sway bar install is getting the bolts undone for that damn H-brace. I had a very hard time with mine as the nuts were on top of it and it's impossible to get something long enough up there to torque them off. I gave up and had a shop do mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jduke Posted August 10, 2005 Author Share Posted August 10, 2005 hummm, ok so I found the post about vacation pics... i didnt look at them yet but it seems they have nothing to do with the front sway torque specs. So why? Oh well thanks for the advise. John D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutter2k Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 keefe: So ramps would be better than jack stands? Don't have ramps, but if it would work better maybe I'll get'em. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 The reason for getting ramps is that is puts pressure on the tires/wheels/suspension. This way, when you take the bar off, it's MUCH easier. With jackstands, you wouldn't 'unload' the suspension, and that would make things very difficult. If you don't have ramps, but have a 'curb' that you could drive up onto, that would help as well...and would give you some space under the car...but be very careful not to scratch the underside of the bumper. To be safe, go with the ramps. That's how I did the rear bar on my WRX. As for the torque specs, maybe someone can chime in there...always a good thing to torque down the bolts to the correct spec, so you don't end up breaking any linkage/etc...and also, so that the bolts don't come loose, and end up costing you some SERIOUS cash. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 the idea is to get the bar unloaded (to do that you need to make sure that the wheels are not dangling off the car).. you'll have a harder time (not impossible) to bolt on the new bar because when the control arms are lowered, then the bolt hole distance from one control arm to the other is shorter than the bar itself.. so in order to get the control arms from swinging down is to jack up both ends of the control arms to put the bar on... just my 2 cents when installing the bar instead of manhandling it onto the car. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 i am surprised the "pics" are still up on here....with all the worry about getting into trouble....lets not forget we are all "stealing" them.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 +1 Ramp it.... Also if your suspenison is hang'n and you put everything back together, and bolt on the endlinks real tight, then drop the car they will have much unneeded tension on them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutter2k Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Will be installing the Cusco TypeII Lower Arm Bar Rear the same day. Recommend ramps vs jack stands for that as well? Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 ramps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigT Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Exactly how is one to know how much torque has been exerted on a bolt with just a regular set of socket wrenches? Is there a torque measuring machine? Also, can't you just tighten then until they feel pretty tight? Whats the worst that could happen? What the heck are those black rubber things that came with my Cusco FSB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 torque wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigT Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Cost? Location of these torque specs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 How hard is this to do without ramps? I don't feel like shelling out the dough. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 I did it without ramps.. I just used two jack stands in the process, no air tools required. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Cost? Location of these torque specs? Check the "Vacation Pix" for torque specs. If you haven't already (and it doesn't seem like you have, since you're asking for the specs), I'd highly recommend downloading the entire thing to keep handy on your hard-drive. As for cost of torque wrenches? Anywhere from < $25 to $100+, depending on quality and how low/high torque figures you need to achieve. Worst that could happen without torque wrench? You over-torque and snap the bolt/nut clean off - and need to drill-out the remaining portion. Alternatively, you can have things too loose and start to vibrate apart from just normal driving. Torque wrenches are considered basic tools. Invest in a couple if you plan to do any serious upgrade/maintenance work on your vehicle. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Base Auto Hobby shop rules. We got all this and more for about 3.00/hr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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