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The Retro has begun. Headlamp overhaul.


VXCL

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FULL XENON D2S PROJECTOR RETROFIT- Last Updated 12.08.06

 

Difficulty- *3 out of 5*

Based off of 1 being an intake install and 5 being an engine swap. The concept is very straightforward, however it is a very tedious and precise process. I would have rated it a 2, however it is extremely easy for things to go wrong in so many different ways. It's one of those things that looks easier then it is, but it's not rocket science.

 

Downtime- *Full Weekend*

A full retro can be done in one day or even several hours, but for most I would plan an entire weekend of downtime. It helps to make the wire harness ahead of time.

 

Tools Needed

-basic hand tools

-heat gun or oven

-dremel or similar tool w/ several cutoff disks and sanding bits

-misc screws, nuts, washers, bushings, and bolts

-Permatex Ultra Black High Temp RTV Sealant

-micro fiber towels

 

Parts Used

-2004 BMW E39 D2S Xenon Projectors

-Hella Gen IV D2S Ballasts and Igniters

-Philips D2S 4100k Xenon Bulbs

 

The Insanity Behind The Cause- Why do a retro when kits are readily available?

-A full OEM Xenon projector system can be sourced for about the same as most kits. This includes the bulbs, ballasts, and projectors. Why settle for just a kit with inferior ballasts and bulbs for the same price?

 

-Depreciation on OEM Xenon parts is minimal if at all. You will loose half of what you spent on a kit if not more as soon as you open the box. You could actually sell OEM Xenon parts for what you paid! Or even better you stand to make money because you've already done the work! All you have to do is find a buyer and swap your headlamps. It's a small investment. How often can you say that about car mods? NEVER!

 

-If there are any problems with parts they are easy sourced and very cheap. I've never had a problem with all the parts I've used or sold during the last 5 years! Trying to search down a new bulb or ballast for your kit that has special connectors is not fun. Their is also the problem with new bulbs not matching your other bulb. This really depends on the quality of the bulbs and how much they have been used. OEM D2S bulbs even when mismatched, are generally very similar in color. Unless you mix brands of course.

 

-Retro's look 100% identical, not close, to other cars on the road resulting in no unwanted attention from overly blue or purple kits. Cops off your back and you'll still be able to sneak up on Ricers at night.

 

-OEM parts are built under strict quality control resulting in superior performance and reliability. A 6000k kit from one manufacturer will not necessarily look the same as another. It's hard to make sure you get exactly what you want unless you see someone else's setup in person. With OEM parts you always know exactly what you're going to get.

 

-Forced to create wire harness which results in isolation from OEM circuits. Absolutely no need to worry about wiring, dash switches, etc.

 

-You should take your lamps apart even with a kit to block the rectangular hole in the OEM cutoff shield, so might as well swap the projector while you are in there. This hole allows a small amount of light to shine further down the road, but with xenon this will make for a strange cutoff and possible glare issues to oncoming traffic.

 

-Kits are not necessary in an H7 setup. D2S actually works quite well in them most of the time. The legacy actually has a good H7 projector and when paired with properly focused D2S bulbs or even a kit the results are above average. You could just buy OEM D2S xenon bulbs and ballasts and have about 80% of the benefits of a full retro without all the work. Again you should take your lamps apart to block the rectangular hole in the OEM cutoff shield and take the time to properly focus the bulbs. Several members have gone this route and links to their setup can be found at the end of this guide. This route would cost less them most kits and still remain superior over them.

 

-Most importantly you get to say things like Audi, BMW, and Lexus when people ask about your setup. :cool: Then people will say :orly:

 

Installation

Here's some helpful pics and info that give the meat and potatos of the process and other's have used it as a successful guide. Enjoy!

 

AGAIN USE THIS ONLY AS A GUIDE. DO NOT FOLLOW IT EXACTLY UNLESS YOU USE THE SAME PARTS I DID!

 

You must first remove your hood grill, bumper, headlamps, and then take the lenses off your headlamps before getting to this point.

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/housing_mod_1.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/mounts.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/top_mount.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/lower_mount.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/mount_gap.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/cutoff2.jpg

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/finished.jpg

 

 

Wiring Diagram

-This type of relay harness will provide full isolation from all oem circuitry. The diode prevents flow back from the relay.

 

-DRL functionality retained.

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/xenon_harness.jpg

 

 

Helpful Tips and Info

 

-The Automotive Lighting FAQ website is a great place to find everything you could possibly want to know about Xenon lighting and retrofits.

 

-SUVLIGHTS.COM is a good place to find parts to build a wire harness. They have all types of OEM connectors, relays, Xenon bulbs, ballasts, etc.

 

-Never power up a xenon ballast without a bulb in the socket! It only takes one time to cause immediate damage to the bulb connector and or ballast. Personal injury and death is possible!

 

-Do not use a xenon bulb with a cracked ceramic insulator on the igniter. (this is the rod running along the capsule and is generally brown) Damaged insulators can result in a premature arching of current and cause the bulb to blow up. If you can't get another bulb I’ve heard a little JB Weld will work just fine. Just be careful when repairing it.

 

-Never let the capsule of a xenon bulb come in contact with your fingers or anything else for that matter. They are very sensitive and need to be free of all dirt and grease. If you must clean a capsule rubbing alcohol will work just fine. I would also use a micro fiber towel on it afterwards. Be very careful not to crack the brown ceramic insulator igniter.

 

-If you must clean the optics of your xenon parts or oem reflector be very careful! Use very mild dish soap, a new soft sponge, and rinse well. Be extremely careful with the optics of a projector bowl. The soap can react with the chrome coating and cause it to flake off. I would just rinse the projector if possible. Then shake off the excess water and dab lightly with a micro fiber towel. Once dry you can use a micro fiber towel to lightly buff out any water spots.

 

-Use a heat gun to remove the headlamp lenses. Start on the lower inner corner (side that meets the hood grill) using a med size flat head screwdriver. If it's difficult to pry apart then the sealant hasn't been heated enough! Do not go Rambo when prying, you will bend the housing, it will look bad, and greatly increase the chance of moisture problems. Once you have the corner started you can pull the lens from the housing using your hands, while heating the area not separated yet. This technique ensures no damage to the housing except possibly the corner area where you started. When you do pull the lens off and you get strings of oem sealant don’t push it back into the housing! You'll just end up making it hard to push completely back together again. As long as you use enough new sealant during reassembly you'll be fine.

 

-If you do not have access to a heat gun then you can use your oven. Work on only one headlamp at a time! I found 225 degrees is a good temp. I left a headlamp in the oven for 15 minutes to see what would happen and it was fine. If you don’t think your oven temp is accurate 200 is good. Bake them for 6-8 minutes. Make sure you put foil on the baking sheet! The housing on the bare metal will probably melt. See above for lens removal technique.

 

-Store the headlamp lenses in garbage bags as soon as you take them off. It's amazing how much dust will find its way on the inside. Cleaning the lenses almost always results in fine scratches and swirl marks all over the lens, which is made very apparent when your headlamps are on. Do yourself a favor and just bag them up.

 

-When reinstalling the lens make sure you heat the housing back up first, then just push the lens on. Use Permatex Ultra Black High Temp RTV Sealant to reseal your lamps. Used this on many retro's over the years and never once had a moisture problem. If it globs out and gets on the lens leave it and let it dry. Then peel it off or gently rub it off. Never use Goof Off or other similar harsh products to clean up any type of silicone sealant. It will just smear it around and cause a reaction with your lens, ultimately ruining it! Or just cover the lens with blue painters tape and avoid the problem completely!

* I’ve been told that Nissan part # B6553-89915 is a black butyl rubber sealant similar to the OEM sealant.*

 

-Gutter guard (used a lot for DIY grills) can be a great material to create new projector mounts. mr_luv gets credit for this idea. Very easy to work with and strong enough for the job.

 

-Use lock nuts with nylon insert if not screwing into plastic. Also a good idea to put a dab of Permatex over each screw to ensure nothing comes loose over time. Once dry it can easily be pulled off if needed.

 

-Sealed ballasts like Hella Gen 3 (found on many Audi's and BMWs) and Koito (found mainly on Toyota and Lexus) are best because they are designed to deal with the elements and resist moisture. If you are using a ballast that has any type of connector on it you must seal it up, because if not water will find its way in and ruin it. This will probably occur when washing the car. A couple layers of brand name duct tape works awesome and will last forever. Also a good time to use the left over Permatex sealant to seal things up.

 

-One word, KISS (Keep it simple stupid) Don't modify the projector or housings unless you have to! Is there another way? By keeping your design as simple as possible the cleaner the install will be and the risk of ruining your headlamps will be minimal. And MOST IMPORTANTLY plan, plan, plan, and plan some more!

 

 

Additional Pics

 

Stripped Down

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/apart.jpg

 

Before

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/open_housing.jpg

 

After- So much bigger. The lens is 3" in diameter.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/open_housing_e39.jpg

 

Projector Comparison- OEM Halogen H7 vs BMW E39 Xenon D2S

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/projector_compare1.jpg

 

2.5" lens vs 3" lens

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/projector_compare2.jpg

 

Thank you Subaru for huge oversized grommet!

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/grommet.jpg

 

Everything just fits! Notice the igniter is built into bulb connector. This allows for the elimanation of the high voltage wire and is easily detached allowing me to run the small black wire through the OEM grommet. This is why I like the Hella Gen IV D2S System. D1S setups basically do the same thing except the igniter is actually built into the bulb which then requires a D1S projector.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/igniter_housing.jpg

 

Fully assembled- Looks just like OEM

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/finished_lamp1.jpg

 

Xenon system during warmup

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/warmup.jpg

 

Xenon system after warmup- normal operating color

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/lamp_on.jpg

 

 

I hope you found this guide very helpful and now have the confidence to take on your very own xenon retro. The results are worth it!

 

Peace

-MiKE aka VX

 

*If you need help sourcing xenon parts, I sell them on ebay from time to time*

 

JOIN THE MOVEMENT!

 

IT HAS ALREADY BEGUN...

 

COMPLETE OPTICAL AND ELECTRONIC RETROS

1. CombatCQB

2. power_getter

3. super.duper.BL6

4. praedet (no link)

5. mr_luv

6. MiniStiGuy

7. HungHing88

 

ELECTRONIC RETROS

1. Boostjunkie

2. blue dragon

3. Waxiboy

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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Beautiful!! Can't wait to see the cutoff. Since the new projectors got larger diameter and better optics, it must be putting more light on the ground. Hope everything goes smooth.

 

Thanks. the cutoff is great. i totally forgot to take pics last night of stock vs my setup, but there are some guys that are like a town away from me i can meet up with and take pics of output and cutoff, vs stock. hopfully everything will be done tonight. i need to find some small enclosure for the ballast but other then that im good to go.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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I am glad that things worked out. I wasn't sure if I got you the right amount of information or the right information at all.

 

What would I need to look for to do the same? Maybe with a smaller D2S? Can you help a brother out?

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I loved to see a side by side comparison of the same HID kit with stock vs BMW installed.

 

its a joke. they can't even be compared. the sealant is drying so i'll have them in tomm. only thing i havent figured out is where exactly im putting the ballasts. i'll go take a finished pic, but you cant tell they were changed.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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VXCL, I've gotta give you much, much props!

 

That looks like a headache-inducing job.

 

Great effort, great job - now let's see some shots!!!!!! :)

 

-A

 

PS: gt_ltd I honestly don't know if "size matters" with these setups - but in the world of lighting in-general, the larger the reflector and/or lens assembly, the more light is usually the result - speaking purely in terms of "throw." Get a load of why SureFire increases the diameter of their reflector housings for their "TurboHead" equipped tactical lights, as well as why they've gone to a convex lens for their Executive series incandescents, and you'll see what this typically means. :) Additionally, look at legendary units such as the BigBulkHead reflector assembly on the CandlePower enthusiast discussion Forum.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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I am glad that things worked out. I wasn't sure if I got you the right amount of information or the right information at all.

 

What would I need to look for to do the same? Maybe with a smaller D2S? Can you help a brother out?

 

 

i can prob get you the same parts for cheap. no ebay, no risk of being scammed, quality parts. anyways i did the 2nd light in like 2 hrs! it was a joke. i got the science down. lines up everything perfect and dead on if you copy how i used the oem cutoff shield for mounts. no headaches for you. just copy what i did. it just fits perfectly. i have tons of pics and you can see exactly what i did.

 

Thanks again for all you're help, i'll be making a new thread with alot of precise measurements that a retro'r will want to know to pick the right setup.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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where in nj are yah?

 

union county near summit.

 

anyways pics of the finished project. it was raining all day and night so no ground shots cuz i know people will say it looks the same as stock which is becuase of the rain. so once its nice and dry ill take some ground shots.

 

 

even in daylight the stock fogs now look yellow

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/IMG_3752.JPG

 

fills the entire opening in the headlamp housing. no more gap.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/IMG_3741.JPG

 

HID KIT- not my setup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

http://img272.echo.cx/img272/5286/dsc022367qt.jpg

 

OEM D2S complete system- MY SETUP!!!

notice the huge difference. you can also see the fog light cutoff in the lower half. i forgot to turn them off

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/IMG_3753.JPG

 

you can see more of the blue and purple cutoff. also you can see these projectors throw a good bit of yellow right above cutoff which is good for rain

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/xenon_guide/cutoff2.jpg

 

 

 

 

i really tried to make d2s work in our h7 projectors but still it wasn't near what a full xenon setup is like. i said i wouldn't swap the projector and had to give in. there was no way around it. i will get some ground shots for you guys real soon. i will make a whole new post filled with info for those wanting to do a full swap.

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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It looks great..

2 comments though, 1st is that I have a D2S setup on stock projectors and I think it looks really close to OEM HIDs, I even compared it to my friend's BMW, they are almost identical.

 

2nd, y didn't u clear out your headlights since you dissembled your headlights anyway?

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It looks great..

2 comments though, 1st is that I have a D2S setup on stock projectors and I think it looks really close to OEM HIDs, I even compared it to my friend's BMW, they are almost identical.

 

2nd, y didn't u clear out your headlights since you dissembled your headlights anyway?

 

1- THANKS! i tested out d2s in our stock projectors. yes to oncoming traffic and looking at the car they look very similar. the output is also much better then h7 and looks pretty in front of the car. but then park in front of a wall and you see the spread is no where near as precise. its much more scattered then your friends bmw. does that mean it sucks? no. d2s actually works very well in our h7 setups. better then most kits i would say cuz you can focus it better. its not really one h7 fits all type of thing. they all seem to react diff. example a valeo h7 with d2s has a very sharp cutoff compared to our oem setup with d2s. the bottom line is that there is no way our h7 with d2s can spread the light as well or as precise as oem xenon setup. the cutoff is a dead giveaway. would the average person know the difference? prob not. i would just hate to pull up next to a new audi, benz, jag, etc at the quixk mart or whatever and see their crisp cutoff on the wall compared to my mess. also i have been told d2s in our h7 has hotspots (glare at certain angles). i never bothered to check cuz once i saw the cutoff my was decision made.

 

2. i dont like the clear look. i love ambers. to me clear is sporty and amber is classy. same reason i have no wing. i prefer the clean and classy oem look. i dont want people to look at my car and say wow that thing is modified. i want them to be like damn thats nice did it come like that? the best compliment is no compliment. i am a big fan of chip foose.

 

my last car- minus the rims :(

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/cl2.jpg

 

of course xenon retro (bmw bi-xenons)

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/headlampclose.jpg

 

ps. im so glad you retro'd d2s bulbs and ballasts and didnt buy a kit. i have hated kits 4 ever!

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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yup it does look classier with the amber reflectors. I'll say it again, great job on the projectors and I guess I now see what you mean.

 

thanks :) hey your avatar, is that a mock of all thos idiots that see things in toast and bread? did you actually take that pic cuz then its even funnier?

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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VXCL - your cut-off looks *_awesome_*.

 

Like you said, a run-of-the-mill auto-enthusiast probably would not notice the difference, but to an experienced HID-retrofitter and/or lighting (automotive or otherwise), that beam-shot tells all. There is so much less glare and scatter with your retrofit...excellent.

 

-GREAT- work, bro!

 

-A

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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I plan to meet up with another member on the board who lives right next to me. I need to get a tripod. We are going to take pics of the dirrence between the oem setup vs. mine. also he's stage II so I'm would say i'm prob more interested in that over the lighting. shhhh! :) If i have time tonight I'll get a nice shot or two of the output. i got mini tripod i can put on the sunroof and set a timer. thanks for the compliments.

 

if anyone wants the exact same parts let me know. i have a temporary connection and i assure you it will be cheaper then any kit. groupbuy or not.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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i am interested..

 

hell would you help a brotha out in setting it up once i got the parts? (i am a lighting douche)

 

hit me up via pm, and maybe we can scratch each others backs (you hook me up with a good price on the light kit, and i might be able to swing you a deal on somethign else)

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