Step-by-step installation of a dashcam.

DVR/Dashcam installtion.

 

Part 1 - Introduction.

 

Be warned: This is not a simple operation, and the Dashcam setup described here is not a basic one.

 

My dashcam / DVR setup is based on a 4-channel AVerDigi EB1304MOB Digital Video Recorder with a 250GB hard drive. I have 3 cameras (front, rear, driver). The dashcam also has a GPS overlay of speed/heading/location. I have the front camera recorded with GPS data on one channel, and naked on another, so I can choose if I want to publsh that data - for example I can put video on youtube without having to block out my name/location in the overlay data. GPS data comes in the form of an NMEA $GPRMC sentence arriving from a Garmin GPS18PC 'puck' that has a DE9 serial connection and sends data in 4800 baud 8-N-1 format.

 

The DVR has a power controller that is homebuilt (etched circuit board). It has 6 triggers (3 positive, 3 negative) and can be hooked to the ignition, domelight, door contacts, vibration sensor etc. The power controller itself supplies 2 channels of power - one for the cameras and one for the DVR. The cameras will get regulated +12v continuously until all trigger events have ceased for 17 seconds, and the DVR will continue to get power for 17 seconds past that (to allow time to save the recording to disk).

 

 

A 10 minute video overview of the DVR setup can be found here:

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqhZ1OowGmM]YouTube - Overview of my DVR[/ame]

 

 

Coming next: Part 2 - physical installation of the DVR and supporting hardware in the back of my 2005 LGT.

Part 2: Installing the trunk components of the DVR, step-by-step

 

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/01_TrunkBefore.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/02_RemovingSeat.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/03_RemovingSeat2.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/04_Baseboard.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/05_SeatsOut.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/06_SeatSupports.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/07_DrillingSupports.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/08_SupportsDrilled.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/09_SeatSupportsAndBaseboard.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/10_MountingBolt.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/11_MountingBolts.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/12_MountingBolts2.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/13_BaseboardMounted_Inside.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/14_Baseboard_Mounted_Trunk.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/15_Wingnuts.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/16_MountingComponents.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/18_LocationsSelected.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/17_MountingComponents2.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/19_LocationsMarked.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/20_LocationsDrilled.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/21_MountingStraps.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/22_BoxesMounted.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/23_ComponentsMounted.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/24_StartingToWire.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/25_MoreWiring.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/26_MoreWiring2.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/27_MoreWiring3.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/28_PowerController.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/29_NearlyDone.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/CarDVR_Install/30_InTheCar.jpg

Coming soon: Finalizing/trimming the trunk installation.

thats crazy amount of wires

Holy crap....I got tired just scrolling through.

Nevermind, I saw the other thread. This would have been helpful for me. Rather than going thru all that work, which is impressive I was just going to buy a portable video recorder and just mount it to face the front.

thx for sharing this info, keep going!

what's the "unrelated" thing in the trunk?

 

I think you need a weight reduction kit after installing this

what's the "unrelated" thing in the trunk?

 

I think you need a weight reduction kit after installing this

 

 

It's my "mailbox light". I live on an unlit rural road with a 55mph limit (~70mph actual traffic speed) that I have to cross on foot to get to my mailbox. During the winter when I get home from work and go to grab my mail it's pitch black and approaching cars can't see me on the road. It only took a couple of cars passing within a foot of me at 70-80mph to figure out i needed to be visible.

 

So I mounted a projector-style driving light to the top of my towbar (prev owner installed a tobar - go figure) that faces backwards. When I pull into my driveway ( and stop with my trunk pointed at the mailbox) I get out of the car, open the trunk and turn on the mailbox light - it provides a TON of light so I can see what I'm doing and approaching cars can see me.

 

I mounted the switch in the trunk for two reasons - 1) I didn't have to run wires into the cabin - all the wiring stays in the trunk, and 2) It's illegal in ohio to have a rear-facing white light that is not a backup light, so by installing the switch in the trunk there's no question of me ever being able to activate it from the driver's postion or while driving on the road. I only activate it when I'm off-road (my driveway).

Flashlight?

Nevermind, I saw the other thread. This would have been helpful for me. Rather than going thru all that work, which is impressive I was just going to buy a portable video recorder and just mount it to face the front.

 

There are many different ways to achieve this. My goal was to have a fully automated system that gathers lots of different types of evidence in different situations. I *know* that if I rely on myself to hit record then I'll forget. There was a time when my dashcam consisted only of a $50 VCR, power inverter and a cheap $50 ebay bullet camera. Worked great when I remembered to hit record... Missed a spectacular near-collision on the freeway because I had forgotten to hit record.

 

There are consumer-level products now that are a single-camera dashcam designed to sit right on your dashboard - like this: http://trafficsafetycam.com/

Flashlight?

 

I'd need 3 hands.

I'd need 3 hands.

 

http://www.e-headlamps.com/images/petzl_myo_xp.jpg

Ok, now back on topic.

 

What is the signal type and connection type between camera and the recorder?

 

I like your setup, except pretty hefty forward camera. Any more compact alternatives that still offer decent quality?

The signal is a standard NTSC analog signal coming via an RG59 coax with BNC ends. It is a single channel video, ie you could plug it into the yellow RCA composite "Line In" on your tv. If I was gonna do it again I'd use a single Cat5 with baluns to run the two front cameras, power and mic. instead of running 4 thick wires to the front. The wires are run through the factory conduit on the passenger side - the seats and carpet were removed to get the cable run properly.

 

I started with a much smaller bullet camera about the size of a C-cell battery - but it was a fixed iris lens camera that was simply unable to adjust for the lighting difference from night to day. At night it would be basically black with oncoming cars blinding the camera - and during the day if the sun was in shot the image was smeared like this:

 

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/sunglare.jpg

 

The two most important things that the camera MUST have to work as a dashcam are 1) Auto-iris, and 2) IR filter

 

There are smaller cameras, but they are more expensive. This camera-lens combination runs about $200, and you could get a good true sony day/night with auto-iris and IR in a smaller package but it woudl run closer to 3 or 400. Now, there's nothing stopping you running a cheaper camera if you're willing to accept that it won't handle extreme lighting conditions. It's the 80/20 rule again - a cheap camera will get 80 of the video - but getting that last 20% becomes an exponential cost.

 

I learned long ago that you *definitely* get what you pay for in CCTV.

so quick question. What made you decide to to this? Did something happen or is it just a safety precaustionary step of some sort. I understand how it could be useful. but you went all out.. and i mean all out. Props to you for this. i would have already have been drunk and pissed off. it looks like a electronics nightmare.

I did this all because in 17 years of driving I have been in 4 traffic accidents (1 of which was may fault and I was honest and tookt he blame) and in the other 3 the at-fault driver lied to the police in a way that meant fault went my way or was split.

 

1) Head-on with drunk driver who crossed centerline and hit me at 80mph. He refused to give a blood sample and was never legally convicted of being 'drunk'. He claimed that *I* crossed the centerline, and the police said fault could not be proven. I didn't have to pay out for his car, but I lost mine (totalled, liability only). Cost me about $6k.

 

2) While driving past a line of stationary traffic, one car pulled out as I was passing and I sideswiped him. He claimed that I was driving in a "bus lane" and the insurance companies agreed to go 50/50 until I went back to the scene of the accident and took pictures of the Bus Lane sign which read "Bus lane 8am-10am 4pm-6pm" Accident happened at 2pm, so I was cleared in this acciednt and got my car paid for, but only because his lie was easy to disprove. My car was totalled, and I would have been out a couple grand.

 

3) Rear-ended at a red light. The other driver claimed I cut him off and slammed my brakes on as we were approaching the intersection at green. Police refused to issue a citation and listed fault as "undetermined". His insurance stonewalled and I finally settled for 75% of my damages. The 25% balace of the damages would have bought my DVR.

 

 

In all 3 cases having video footage would have proven I was not at fault. In all 3 cases none of the witnesses stopped - just kept on going. I *always* stop and offer witness testimony. Have done so 4 times. All 4 times they needed my testimony because the at-fault driver lied.

 

1) Driver in front of me pulled out of a sidestreet into the path of a passing car. He told the police the car was signalling and slowing down to turn before him. The case was fought for over 6 months - I know becuase that's when I got asked for a format witness statement for the court.

 

2) A guy made a left turn and was struck by an oncoming car. He claimed the car was speeding so fast that it was not in view when he started his turn - even though he could see for 5 or 600 hundred feet. Case took 2 years and two court hearings where I gave testimony until he was found to be at fault.

 

3) Two cars both making a left in a 2-lane left turn when a Caprice drifted out of his lane and hit a PT cruiser. I was the only witness who stopped, and my statement to the police was enough for the Caprice driver to retract his lie that it was the PT Cruse that drifted out of it's lane. Without my testimony it would have gone 50/50.

 

4) A guy backing out from a gas pump oblivious to the girl behind him waiting for the pump. His claim of being rear-ended by the girl didn't survive long after I gave my witness statement.

 

 

In each of THESE cases a video system like mine would have made up for the fact that all the witnesses just drove away (excpet me).

thats what i was wondering. Well i give you your dues when it comes to this project. very nice work. i only wish i had the patience to do this type of stuff.

I was thinking about this for the reasons stated above, although luckily I was not in a situation to be blamed unjustly for an accident. But I keep hearing how often it happens.

 

Additional motivation are bullshit tickets. I was given one recently one. Lucikly with a help of fellow member who is a lawyer I got it thrown out, but it cost me time, money and aggravation.

 

The two most important things that the camera MUST have to work as a dashcam are 1) Auto-iris, and 2) IR filter

 

I cannot find anywhere the Toshiba camera you reference. Are you sure the model # is correct? Where did you buy it?

 

EDIT: found it, link: http://www.toshibasecurity.com/products/prod_camera_detail_ik6410a.jsp

I was thinking the same thing but the costs associated with it and plus I have other cars that I drive so it won't be practical to wire up all of them. I mean it's great to have but really I think in all situations a front facing camera would be sufficient to tell the story. I mean if you were rear ended, the video would show proof that you weren't driving erratically up to the point of collision.

 

This is an idea I was always tinkering but not on such a grand scheme. Props to you and hope you will never have to use it for such incidents. The increase in my insurance from an accident that should have been the other parties fault but the ol' great state of NJ says that any rear ending is the one who hit the other cause they should be able to avoid any collisions...

 

The fact that people can't own up to their own mistakes is a reason why there's a need for such devices...

What is the lens you use with the camera? It looks like the camera comes without lens.

I cannot find anywhere the Toshiba camera you reference. Are you sure the model # is correct? Where did you buy it?

 

EDIT: found it, link: http://www.toshibasecurity.com/products/prod_camera_detail_ik6410a.jsp

 

 

That's the one. I made a black felt cover for mine so you can't see the camera from outside the car as easily. Visually, anout 80% of the camera is obscured from my vision by the rearview mirror and the rest lines up with the sun shade strip. I don't lose any windshield real estate ot the camera.

 

 

The 3 big differences between a brandname cameras and cheap ebay crap are 1) The amount of digital processing that happens to clean up a bad image, 2) The reliability and 3) The support. Toshiba will stand behind this camera - what about the ebay guy in hong kong who sent you the $50 camera with the same apparent specs but with no DSP so it simply passes you the bad image, then craps out after 6 months.

 

That toshiba gives a NICE image in all lighting conditions.

 

Cheap ebay camera that sees the sun:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/sunglare.jpg

 

$120 noname camera with auto iris but no IR filter that sees the sun:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/sunglare2.jpg

 

Toshiba Camera that sees the sun:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/2007_12_06_08_50_14_Camera01.jpg

 

 

Which image would you rather have contain your vital evidence?

(imagine the guy next to you drited out of his lane and hit you - but he claimed that YOU drifted out of your lane. You need the video to show the road markings so you can prove him wrong.)